Nostr notes by AdventureRide

Restless Alice The area west of Port Alice on Vancouver Island ...

2026-10-29T11:36:37Z

Restless Alice

The area west of Port Alice on Vancouver Island isn’t a common destination for cyclists; overlanders and logging trucks use it more than human-powered travelers. However, south of Quatsino Sound, […]
The post Restless Alice appeared first on BIKEPACKING.com.

https://bikepacking.com/routes/restless-alice/

#alice #portalice #vancouverisland #quatsinosound #however

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The Bikepacking Gear I’ve Been Using the Longest This year’s ...

2026-10-22T01:40:45Z

The Bikepacking Gear I’ve Been Using the Longest

This year’s bikepacking season looked very different for me. Instead of a carefree, bikepacking-obsessed small business owner with plenty of time for personal adventures, I’m now a busy working parent of a toddler!
Life changes, and so do the adventures that fit in. But I’m stubborn, and proud to say I logged 17 days of bikepacking and touring this spring and summer despite some big logistical hurdles. A couple trips were in the style I’ve always loved (rugged solo bikepack racing) and some were experiments in a totally new direction (maximalist touring with a baby in a trailer).
I’ve been closely tracking gear updates this year as creator of Bikepack Baggregator and an Adventure Cycling blogger. It’s been awesome to see all the innovative new stuff coming out, but for me personally, this year was more about returning to old familiar gear than making big updates.
Despite all the life changes, much of my favorite gear still works wonderfully. Some of these items have been mainstays in my bikepacking and backpacking lineup for over a decade! If you’re looking for gear that will earn its place for the long haul, I recommend them.
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Anything by Revelate Designs
If there’s one gear company I keep coming back to, it’s Revelate Designs. I don’t use everything I own from them on every ride, but everything I own from them still gets used.
Their Handlebar Harness is a workhorse. I did treat myself to a smaller, lighter handlebar setup this year (the MLD Border, which I reviewed here), but I still loaded up my Revelate Harness for a recent gravel overnight. It holds a ton, mounts fast and easy, and the roomy Egress front pouch adds so much easy-access space.
My Mountain Feedbags are also still a prized possession. They’ve come on every ride this year, and for several years before that. I’m constantly moving them between bikes for day rides, so I should probably spring for a second pair now that every second counts in my busy day-to-day life. :)
My Viscacha seat bag is an older Revelate model, and I wouldn’t necessarily recommend the big size these days (Revelate’s newer stabilized models are much better for larger loads). But I still reached for it to haul enough stuff for our spontaneous family overnight without fussing over a rack.
Pulling out my old Revelate Viscacha seat bag, plus the Revelate Harness and Mountain Feedbags up front, on a family gravel overnighter.
Salsa Fargo
Good old Shadowfax the Fargo! I can’t say enough (though I tried here) about how reliable and versatile this bike is. It’s been in gravel mode this year with Tufo Thundero HD tires, so I’m riding less singletrack on it (Stella gets to do that instead), but it’s definitely capable on light trails. I love how comfortable it is and how well it handles a wide range of terrain.
My Fargo and I spent a lot of time together this year. As my gravel bike, it carried me through my first gravel race, a quick 30 miles at Sea Otter Classic. As my road bike, it did a lot of hill training rides. Most significantly, it was my trailer-hauling steed of choice for our ten-day family crossing of South Korea and a gravel overnight in Henry Coe State Park.
Yet another incarnation of my versatile Fargo, this time hauling a baby across South Korea on paved paths.
Down Sleeping Quilts
Fourteen years ago, while prepping to backpack the John Muir Trail, my husband and I invested in down sleeping quilts (Enlightened Equipment Enigma, and later, their Convert). I’d never go back to anything else for 3-season adventures.
Quilts save weight and bulk by leaving out the compressed part beneath your body, which doesn’t insulate much anyway. They also skip the hood of a traditional sleeping bag. Instead, you pair them with a standalone hood that you can also wear around camp when it’s cold.
To be honest, my two quilts are getting a bit tired. The down has compressed and definitely doesn’t meet its original comfort rating anymore (on the bright side, they pack smaller than they used to). I might look for a replacement in a year or two, but they’ve served me well for over a decade of biking and hiking adventures.
This year I used my Enigma, the lighter of the two, for every overnight except one: the single night out at the Hot Taco bikepacking race. Temps were so hot that I went without a quilt for the first time ever. I was a bit nervous sleeping in Idaho’s mountains with only a bivy, but the forecast was accurate and my kit was thrillingly ultralight.
My Enigma sleeping quilt and NeoAir XLite sleeping pad on morning two of the Tour de los Padres bikepacking race.
Therm-a-Rest NeoAir XLite Pad
I’ve been sleeping on NeoAir XLite pads for over a decade. Granted, I’ve gone through a few, because my well-used older ones eventually developed slow leaks I couldn’t fix. They’re not cheap, so that’s worth considering. But they provide excellent comfort and an unbeatable warmth-to-weight ratio (good news for this cold sleeper), and if treated well they last a long time.
I’m currently using the newest version, the XLite NXT, which is even better than the previous generation: a bit thicker, even warmer, and definitely quieter when tossing and turning. I used it for every trip this year except Hot Taco (where I brought the so-ultralight-it’s-discontinued NeoAir UberLite instead), and my husband used it for our ride across Korea with our little guy.
It even survived the bouncing toddler test, though I don’t recommend this.
Sawyer Squeeze Water Filter + CNOC Vecto
I’ve tried many water treatment methods, from the bulky but convenient 4L Platypus GravityWorks to minimalist chlorine dioxide pills. I’ve also tried the Sawyer’s main competitor, the Katadyn BeFree, but I keep coming back to my trusty Sawyer Squeeze. I used it on both bikepacking races this year, even though I could have gone smaller and lighter, because it’s just so darn convenient.
Despite the “Squeeze” in the name, I love the Sawyer for a squeeze-free setup with the optional quick-connect kit and a CNOC Vecto water bag. The combo lets me gravity filter directly into the hose of my hydration bladder, totally hands-free, so I can eat a snack while my water prepares itself. When using bottles I hang it from my handlebars with a bottle sitting underneath.
It’s also very easy to backflush, which is so key when drinking out of nasty cow ponds. You don’t even need to carry the syringe: there’s a coupler that works with Smartwater bottles or the CNOC Vecto. My main problems with the BeFree were a reduced flow rate and no way to fully flush it out, which is the biggest reason I switched back to the Sawyer.
Gravity filtering with the Sawyer and CNOC Vecto straight into a hydration bladder through its hose. This is an older picture from Pinyons and Pines, but I still do it the same way now.
JetBoil MicroMo
A JetBoil isn’t the lightest stove out there, but it’s the one I keep reaching for. The reason: I’m always hungry when I get to camp, and the JetBoil (I use the MicroMo model, here’s how it compares to the MiniMo) is the absolute fastest way to boil water. This is even more important now with a rowdy toddler along for the ride!
I once compared the weight of my ultralight stove and pot setup to the JetBoil, and the difference was smaller than I expected once I factored in all the pieces. If you’re out long enough to burn through a fuel canister, the fuel you save absolutely tips the scale in the JetBoil’s favor.
We used our JetBoil heavily in Korea, mainly for ramen at dinner and coffee in the morning, and on our recent overnighter too. I didn’t carry it for my bikepacking races, since I never carry cooking gear for those.
Our little guy gets a lesson in JetBoil usage during our recent overnighter.
Big Agnes Copper Spur 3P Tent
My husband and I bought our Copper Spur six years ago for our joint bikepacking trips, starting with the Great Divide. A wise person (I’m afraid I forget who) once wrote online that the secret to bikepacking as a couple is a 3-person tent, and I took their advice. After riding together through Kyrgyzstan, Morocco, and Portugal, I wholeheartedly agree. Sometimes just 12 inches of extra personal space makes all the difference when you’re tired and grumpy.
Now our three-person tent actually holds three people! We used it backpacking with our son as a baby, and more recently on our bike tour through South Korea and our overnighter. It’s the perfect size for our little family, fast and simple to pitch (so key when setting up camp with a toddler), and remarkably durable (no issues yet).
It’s also pretty darn light for a freestanding tent. I always recommend freestanding tents for longer bike trips where you aren’t just pitching in the wilderness. Korea was a prime example: we often found ourselves pitching on wooden pagodas or platforms where stakes weren’t an option.
No stakes needed: pitching our freestanding Copper Spur in a pagoda in Korea.
Park Tool IB-3 Multitool
I have nothing newly spectacular to say about my Park Tool IB-3 multitool, but I recently noticed it in my frame bag and took a moment to reflect on everywhere we’ve been together. It’s been in my toolkit since my very early days of bike touring, and it’s never let me down.
I love how durable it is (obviously), the chain breaker that actually breaks chains (as long as you don’t lose the lever attachment), and the clever compact design. Mine has gotten a LOT of use, for roadside repairs as well as building my bikes after flying with them (including to Korea this year), and it’s still holding strong.
Ortlieb Back-Roller Panniers
These blue panniers were my very first bike travel splurge. When I bought them in 2019, before my first trip in Southeast Asia, I thought they were incredibly fancy and expensive. They worked well, so I kept using them, first on the Carretera Austral (mostly gravel) and later through Egypt and Sudan, where I needed a LOT of water capacity in the desert.
Once I got hooked on the bikepacking style (soft bags, smaller capacities), these panniers languished in my shed for a few years. But this spring they made a spectacular comeback on my husband’s bike during our family ride through Korea, hauling an absurd amount of baby gear (diapers are bulky!).
Back-Rollers are pricey, it’s true, but they’re a classic for a reason: completely waterproof, easy to use, and incredibly durable. I wouldn’t recommend them for bikepacking-style riding specifically, as the large capacity will weigh you down on climbs and the bulk is awkward for hike-a-bike. But if you actually need 40+ liters of pannier capacity, they’re hard to beat.
My old blue Ortlieb Backroller panniers on my husband’s bike (the middle one) allowed us to haul massive quantities of diapers (and a few other things) through Korea.
Other Bikepacking Resources
If you liked this post, you may also like these articles:
My Bikepacking Gear List System, from Ultralight to Ultra Prepared
18 Bikepacking Tips and Tricks for a Smoother Ride
6 Epic Gravel(ish) Bikepacking Routes in the Western US
Or visit the bikepacking home page for lots more!
About the Author
Hi there, I’m Alissa, founder of Exploring Wild. I’ve traveled over 20,000 miles by bike and still can’t stop planning my next ride (and helping you plan yours). Pavement and panniers or singletrack and seat bag, I love it all. On my bike I feel free. Learn more about me here.
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The post The Bikepacking Gear I’ve Been Using the Longest appeared first on Exploring Wild.

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#revelate #bikepacking #gear #mountainfeedbags #harness #life #adventurecycling #designs #fargo #bikepackbaggregator

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Inside South City Stitchworks: Made in St. Louis During a recent ...

2026-10-21T18:03:15Z

Inside South City Stitchworks: Made in St. Louis

During a recent visit to St. Louis, Missouri, Nic stopped by the small, eclectic South City Stitchworks shop. As one of the more unique bag makers to make a big splash in the last few years, Nic was curious to learn how founder Zach Smith and his brand got started. This Field Trip dives deep into Zach’s origin story, motivations, and history as a maker. Dive in below…
The post Inside South City Stitchworks: Made in St. Louis appeared first on BIKEPACKING.com.

https://bikepacking.com/plog/inside-south-city-stitchworks/

#southcity #citystitchworks #louis #nic #zachsmith #fieldtrip #missouri

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Pre-Orders Open for Pinion-Equipped Viral Wanderer 32” The new ...

2026-10-21T17:12:36Z

Pre-Orders Open for Pinion-Equipped Viral Wanderer 32”

The new Viral Wanderer 32” shares the same specs as the 29" version we reviewed a few years ago, but it has tweaked geometry to accommodate 32" wheels. Learn more about the Wanderer 32" and find pre-order details here...
The post Pre-Orders Open for Pinion-Equipped Viral Wanderer 32” appeared first on BIKEPACKING.com.

https://bikepacking.com/news/viral-wanderer-32-pre-order/

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Geoffrey Wong Completes AZTR and Singlespeed Triple Crown ...

2026-10-21T15:56:18Z

Geoffrey Wong Completes AZTR and Singlespeed Triple Crown Challenge

Fresh off the 2026 Arizona Trail Race, Geoffrey Wong was one of only two singlespeed finishers on the 800-mile route, and he completed a singlespeed Triple Crown Challenge. Find photos and a reflection from Geoffrey here, including why he describes the AZTR as the final boss of bikepacking races...
The post Geoffrey Wong Completes AZTR and Singlespeed Triple Crown Challenge appeared first on BIKEPACKING.com.

https://bikepacking.com/news/geoffrey-wong-singlespeed-triple-crown-challenge/

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New 32-Inch Carbon XC Wheels from Reserve Adding to the growing ...

2026-10-21T14:38:20Z

New 32-Inch Carbon XC Wheels from Reserve

Adding to the growing list of 32-inch components are the new Reserve 30 XC carbon wheels in a 32-inch version, available as a rim-only or complete wheelset. Learn more about them here...
The post New 32-Inch Carbon XC Wheels from Reserve appeared first on BIKEPACKING.com.

https://bikepacking.com/news/reserve-32-xc-wheels/

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Les Velos Laureats du Concours de Machines 2026 L'édition ...

2026-10-21T09:35:08Z

Les Velos Laureats du Concours de Machines 2026

L'édition 2026 du Concours de Machines s'est déroulée le mois dernier dans les montagnes de Savoie, réunissant bon nombre des fabricants de cadres les plus créatifs et les plus talentueux du pays. Tous avaient pour mission de concevoir un vélo d'une polyvalence unique, capable de relever un défi ambitieux dans des conditions réelles. En savoir plus et découvrir les vélos lauréats ici…
The post Les Velos Laureats du Concours de Machines 2026 appeared first on BIKEPACKING.com.

https://bikepacking.com/bikes/velos-laureats-concours-de-machines-2026/

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A Look at the Winning Bikes of Concours de Machines 2026 The 2026 ...

2026-10-21T08:18:10Z

A Look at the Winning Bikes of Concours de Machines 2026

The 2026 edition of the storied Concours de Machines took place last month in the mountains of Savoy, France, bringing together many of the country’s most creative and talented framebuilders. All were tasked with creating a uniquely versatile bike to tackle an ambitious real-world challenge. Learn more and see the winning builds from the general and cargo categories here…
The post A Look at the Winning Bikes of Concours de Machines 2026 appeared first on BIKEPACKING.com.

https://bikepacking.com/bikes/winning-bikes-concours-de-machines-2026/

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The Sombra CERVUS is a Spanish ATB Sombra Cycles is a small ...

2026-10-21T07:02:13Z

The Sombra CERVUS is a Spanish ATB

Sombra Cycles is a small Spanish brand that makes steel bikes from European alloys. The Cervus is the most bikepacking-oriented of several interesting, dirt-focused models in its catalog. Check out the details of this steel ATB below…
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https://bikepacking.com/news/sombra-cervus-intro/

#spanishatb #sombracervus #cycles #check

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The Rene Herse Indiana Pass Tires Are 32″ Semi-Slicks The Rene ...

2026-10-21T05:47:00Z

The Rene Herse Indiana Pass Tires Are 32″ Semi-Slicks

The Rene Herse Indiana Pass Tires are a new semi-slick offering from the Seattle-based brand and a first foray into the 32″ size. Inspired by Meaghan Hackinen’s 2026 Tour Divide win, the tires are built for speed. Check out all the details below…
The post The Rene Herse Indiana Pass Tires Are 32″ Semi-Slicks appeared first on BIKEPACKING.com.

https://bikepacking.com/news/rene-herse-indiana-pass-tires-intro/

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The OMM Axle Pack V2 Is Lighter and Has a New Look Old Man ...

2026-10-21T04:30:15Z

The OMM Axle Pack V2 Is Lighter and Has a New Look

Old Man Mountain has updated its Axle Pack for the first time since its initial release. The brand claims the system is now 20 percent lighter and more aesthetically pleasing than the original. Find out more about this update below…
The post The OMM Axle Pack V2 Is Lighter and Has a New Look appeared first on BIKEPACKING.com.

https://bikepacking.com/news/omm-axle-pack-v2-intro/

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Updated Jones Titanium Framesets and Custom Build Slots If ...

2026-10-21T02:57:14Z

Updated Jones Titanium Framesets and Custom Build Slots

If you've been dreaming of a beautiful titanium Jones bike, now's the time. Jones just updated all their LWB and SWB titanium framesets with UDH dropouts and new brake specs, and they've also opened a limited number of slots for their Custom Select program. Learn more here...
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https://bikepacking.com/news/new-jones-titanium-framesets/

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How I Built the Most Comfortable Gravel Bike I’ve spent years ...

2026-10-20T01:59:54Z

How I Built the Most Comfortable Gravel Bike

I’ve spent years measuring how much vibration suspension forks, seatposts, stems, handlebars, wheels, tyres and saddles absorb. Some products delivered impressive improvements, while others turned out to be little more than clever marketing.
My goal has always been to build a comfortable gravel bike that glides over rough roads, reduces fatigue on long rides and still feels fast and fun to ride.
My latest Trek Checkpoint+ build is the result of years of testing, measuring and refining. In this article, I’ll share the biggest lessons I’ve learned about improving gravel bike comfort, rank my upgrades by how much they’ve improved my riding experience, and take a closer look at the complete build.
Let’s get into it!
The Main Lessons
After more than 50 Comfort Lab reviews, three lessons have shaped how I’ve built my latest gravel bike.
Suspension makes the biggest difference. Suspension forks and seatposts consistently deliver much greater vibration reductions than flex in handlebars, frames or wheels.
Comfort goes beyond vibration damping. Ergonomics, riding position and saddle support all play a major role in how comfortable a bike feels after several hours in the saddle.
Comfort shouldn’t come at the expense of fun. There’s a point where too much compliance can make a bike feel disconnected from the terrain. I still want something efficient and fun to ride – a bike that makes me want to take the long way home.
With these lessons in mind, I’ll rank my upgrades in order of how much they’ve improved my comfort, starting with the ones that have made the biggest difference.
The Biggest Improvement: A Gravel Suspension Fork
If there’s one component that has improved my gravel bike comfort more than anything else, it’s the Cane Creek Invert suspension fork. It’s exceptionally good at absorbing the small, repetitive bumps that make gravel riding so tiring.
The Invert is an unusual fork. It uses an upside-down design, offers just 40 mm of travel, and does away with the damper found in virtually every conventional suspension fork. The idea is that gravel riding involves more high-frequency chatter than big impacts, so prioritising sensitivity to small bumps can make more sense than controlling larger suspension movements.
And it works. The front wheel seems to float over small rocks, delivering something close to the magic carpet ride I’ve been chasing in a gravel fork.
My vibration testing backs this up. Over an obstacle designed to replicate the chatter of a bumpy gravel road, the Cane Creek Invert reduced vibrations by 16% more than the HiRide Sterra suspension fork. That’s impressive considering the HiRide already reduced vibrations by 6% compared with a rigid carbon fork.
Average Vibration (g)Vibrations When Compared to the HiRide SterraHiRide Sterra Suspension2.26–Cane Creek Invert Fork1.9015.9% Fewer Vibrations
The Invert fork isn’t perfect, though. Without a damper, it feels less composed than conventional suspension forks on rough, technical descents. I noticed this particularly on rocky singletrack. It also has external brake routing, lacks fender and dynamo mounts, and costs over US$1,000.
But that’s not where I spend most of my time. This bike is built for fast gravel roads, forest tracks and long, mixed-surface rides. In those conditions, the Invert’s combination of comfort, low weight and simplicity is outstanding.
Cane Creek specifies a maximum tyre clearance of 50 mm, but I’m running a 55 mm tyre. I’m not recommending that everyone exceed the manufacturer’s clearance limits, particularly in muddy conditions where debris can become trapped. Rather, it highlights how conservative published tyre clearances can sometimes be.
I used to run suspension stems, but the Invert has made them largely redundant. When I tested both together, the combination added a little extra comfort, but it also introduced more movement between my hands and the front wheel. I’ve found I prefer to keep my steering a little bit more direct.
The Best Suspension Seatpost I’ve Tested
I’ve tested more suspension seatposts than I can remember. Some worked well but felt too springy or bouncy, while others moved smoothly but struggled to absorb bigger impacts. The Redshift ShockStop PRO Endurance strikes the best balance I’ve found.
It combines a coil spring with an elastomer to deliver 35 mm of travel. The coil responds quickly to bumps, while the elastomer helps control unwanted bouncing. The result is a seatpost that feels smooth and controlled, and my vibration measurements back up that impression.
The difference is most noticeable on rough roads, where the seatpost takes the sting out of repeated impacts and lets me stay seated comfortably for longer. The Mondraker equipped with the Redshift seatpost recorded 19.2% less rear-wheel vibration than when it was fitted to a rigid aluminium seatpost.
Average Acceleration (g)Vibrations When Compared to the Rigid SeatpostAluminium Rigid Post2.39–Redshift PRO Endurance1.9319.2% Fewer Vibrations
The main trade-off is weight. The Redshift is around 200–250 grams heavier than a standard seatpost, and suspension movement can also cost you a little efficiency on smooth roads.
That said, the energy equation can reverse on rough terrain. Excessive suspension movement can result in a power penalty of around 5 watts on smooth surfaces, while laboratory testing has found that suspension can save 13–14 watts on rough roads by reducing the energy lost to vibrations and bouncing.
For the kind of long, mixed-surface rides this bike is built for, that’s a trade-off I’m happy to make.
My Current Favourite Gravel Tyres and Wheels
Tyres have an enormous influence on comfort, but wider isn’t automatically better. In my narrow vs. wide tyre test, I found that wider tyres only reduced vibrations when I lowered the pressure to account for the change in casing tension. In other words, make sure to reduce tyre pressure when you go up in width.
Interestingly, wider tyres may deliver even greater comfort benefits when paired with a suspension fork. ESMTB found that increasing tyre width from 45 mm to 50 mm reduced peak g-forces by 18.7% with a suspension fork, compared with just 1.9% with a rigid fork.
Why the difference? The tyre and suspension fork appear to work together as a two-stage system, with the tyre absorbing smaller, faster impacts before the fork deals with the remaining movement. Together, they can reduce the vibrations reaching the rider more effectively than either system alone.
That made me keen to run the widest tyres I could reasonably fit on my gravel bike and take full advantage of this combination.
Front Wheel Setup
Up front, I’m running the 55 mm Rene Herse Fleecer Ridge in the Endurance casing. Its large, widely spaced knobs provide the grip I need on the loose surfaces I ride.
Running it at just 19 psi (1.3 bar) helps deliver the smooth, magic-carpet ride I’m after.
It’s not the fastest-rolling tyre. In fact, it performs quite poorly in this regard, according to Bicycle Rolling Resistance. However, I’m less concerned about front tyre rolling resistance, as more of my body weight sits over the rear wheel.
For the rim, I’m using a Spank Flare 24 Vibrocore. Spank promotes its Vibrocore technology for vibration damping, but with the Invert suspension fork already doing most of the work up front, that wasn’t my primary reason for choosing it. I wanted a strong, dependable front wheel, and so far, it’s delivered.
Interestingly, the combination does feel particularly smooth. It’s possible that the rim and suspension fork complement each other by responding differently to certain vibration frequencies, but I haven’t measured this combination closely enough to confirm that.
Rear Wheel Setup
At the rear, I’m running the Schwalbe G-One R Pro in a 55 mm size (56 mm measured). It’s one of the faster gravel tyres around: the 50 mm version recorded just 16.7 watts of rolling resistance at 28 PSI in a Bicycle Rolling Resistance lab test. So far, traction and durability have also been good.
The rear tyre and suspension seatpost perform slightly different roles. The tyre smooths out small, high-frequency surface irregularities, while the seatpost helps absorb larger impacts before they reach my body. Running the tyre at 22 psi (1.5 bar) gives me the compliance I’m looking for on rough gravel and forest tracks, without making the bike feel vague or unstable in corners.
For the rear rim, I’ve chosen the Zipp 101 XPLR. Its carbon construction is designed to allow the rim edges to flex slightly under load, effectively pivoting around either side of the spoke bed. As the wheel rolls over obstacles, this flex is intended to provide a little extra vertical compliance.
I haven’t been able to measure a meaningful comfort improvement over a conventional rim, as my testing methodology isn’t sensitive enough to isolate the relatively small differences in wheel vibration. But what I can say is that the rim’s 27 mm internal width works well with my 55 mm tyre, giving it a shape I’m happy with.
The Most Comfortable Gravel Bike Handlebars
I’ve spent a lot of time investigating which handlebars offer the greatest vibration damping on a gravel bike. But with my Invert suspension fork doing most of the work up front, the handlebar itself is unlikely to make a huge difference to overall comfort.
In my Deda Gera vs. Lauf Smoothie handlebar comparison, the bar that performed best in my vibration testing wasn’t actually the most comfortable to ride. What mattered more over a long day was how naturally my wrists, hands and shoulders aligned with the handlebars.
While I was very happy with the Deda Gera, I wanted to try something wider and flatter, so I’ve switched to the SQlab 312 R. Its flattened tops angle forwards slightly, spreading pressure across the palms and giving my hands a more supportive resting position.
The main compromise is that it doesn’t have the wide drops of a dedicated gravel handlebar. With just 1.5° of flare, it’s primarily designed for road riding. But I’ve found that I prefer a compact, sporty cockpit, so this hasn’t been a problem.
For me, this is another reminder that handlebar comfort isn’t just about absorbing vibrations. Finding a shape that supports your hands naturally can make a much bigger difference over a long day in the saddle.
Bar Tape Makes A Big Difference
Bar tape is often overlooked, but your hands are one of the main contact points with the bike. I think it deserves more attention when it comes to comfort. Even if a suspension fork filters out much of the vibration coming through the front wheel, it can’t eliminate the pressure your hands experience while supporting your upper body.
A few years ago, I went on a quest to find the most comfortable bar tape. One thing became clear: thicker tapes, particularly those measuring 3 mm or more, consistently ranked among the most comfortable options.
Ergon’s BT OrthoCell scored 9/10 for comfort in my back-to-back testing, narrowly missing out on the top spot to Silca Nastro Cuscino. It’s made from a special 3 mm-thick orthopaedic foam that Ergon claims maintains its rebound and damping properties over time, rather than gradually packing down like conventional bar tape.
What I like about the OrthoCell tape is that it tackles two sources of discomfort: it absorbs vibrations transmitted through the handlebars, and helps distribute pressure more evenly across the palms.
In practice, it works exceptionally well for me. I can ride for eight hours without experiencing numb hands, and both the grip and feel of the tape are excellent.
Durability isn’t its strongest point, as you can see in the photo of my handlebars above. But given the comfort it provides, I’m happy to accept that trade-off.
The Most Comfortable Saddle I’ve Found
Saddle comfort is complicated. From a vibration-damping perspective, my saddle vibration tests found that the Brooks C17 could damp up to 11.5% more vibration than the firmer Specialized Power Comp.
But as many of you will know, the softest saddle isn’t necessarily the most comfortable. A saddle’s primary job is to support your sit bones, distribute pressure evenly and keep your pelvis stable while pedalling.
For me, the Specialized Romin EVO Mirror is the most comfortable saddle I’ve found. It uses a 3D-printed honeycomb structure rather than conventional foam, providing firm support while distributing pressure across the saddle to help reduce concentrated loading on sensitive soft tissue.
With the Redshift suspension seatpost underneath, the saddle doesn’t need to absorb every impact. The seatpost takes care of much of the larger movement, leaving the saddle to do what it does best: support my body comfortably and keep my pelvis stable while pedalling.
Of course, saddle comfort is highly personal. Pelvis shape, riding position and individual pressure distribution all influence what works best. I wouldn’t claim this is the most comfortable saddle for everyone, but for me, it’s the clear winner.
My Most Comfortable Gravel Bike Yet
I’ve built my latest comfort-focused gravel bike around the Trek Checkpoint+ SL, bringing together the components that have performed best in my Comfort Lab testing.
One thing my previous bikes have taught me is that frame material alone doesn’t determine comfort. Once you have effective suspension at the contact points — particularly a suspension fork, wide tyres and a suspension seatpost — the frame’s contribution to overall comfort becomes less significant.
For me, that means I can prioritise other qualities in a frame. I want it to feel responsive and efficient, with stiffness where it matters, rather than relying on frame flex to absorb every bump.
The Checkpoint’s IsoSpeed system is a good example of this approach. It allows the seat tube to flex independently of the top tube, providing some additional compliance without requiring a rear shock. This complements the Redshift suspension seatpost nicely: the frame adds a little give, while the seatpost provides controlled movement to absorb larger impacts.
Another major reason I chose the Checkpoint is that Trek approves the use of suspension forks on this platform. Many gravel frames aren’t designed around the taller axle-to-crown height of a suspension fork, which can alter the bike’s geometry. The Checkpoint gives me the flexibility to build around the Cane Creek Invert without stepping outside the manufacturer’s intended setup.
Add in a comfortable frame geometry and mounting points for racks, mudguards and bikepacking bags, and it makes an excellent foundation for the long, mixed-surface adventures I have planned.
One important caveat: Trek lists 50 mm as the maximum tyre width for the Checkpoint+ frame, while my rear tyre measures 56 mm on the rim. That exceeds the manufacturer’s stated limit, so I can’t recommend this setup as universally safe. Actual clearance depends on the frame, rim, tyre and wheel alignment, and mud or debris can make an already tight gap particularly risky. It’s something I monitor carefully on my own bike.
Bike Vibration Test Results
Front Vibration (Average)Rear Vibration (Average)BMC URS AMP1.65 g – Baseline1.52 g – BaselineMondraker Dusty R1.54 g – 6.7% Reduction1.12 g – 26.3% ReductionTrek Checkpoint+1.38 g – 16.4% Reduction0.94 g – 38.1% Reduction
In my testing, the Trek Checkpoint+ recorded the lowest average vibration levels at both the front and rear. Using the BMC URS AMP as the baseline, which is already a super comfortable bike with suspension elements, the Trek recorded 16.4% less front-end vibration and a whopping 38.1% less rear-end vibration!
The difference in front-end comfort between the BMC and Mondraker is harder to explain, as both use the same HiRide Sterra gravel suspension fork and similarly sized 45 mm tyres. It’s possible the forks have slightly different tuning, although I haven’t verified this.
The Trek’s advantage is easier to understand. Its Cane Creek Invert fork uses a damper-free design that prioritises sensitivity to the small, repetitive bumps common on gravel roads. This appears to be a particularly effective combination for reducing the vibrations measured at the handleba

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#gravelbike #comfortablegravel #creekinvert #canecreek #suspension #fork #comfort #vibration #biggest #lessons

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La Grande Boreale Photos by Adrien Catel, Alexe Root, Jeremy ...

2026-10-19T17:37:58Z

La Grande Boreale

Photos by Adrien Catel, Alexe Root, Jeremy Rubier, and Laurence Bélanger Known for other outdoor pastimes, we thought it was high time the Laurentians got on the map for their […]
The post La Grande Boreale appeared first on BIKEPACKING.com.

https://bikepacking.com/routes/la-grande-boreale/

#alexeroot #jeremyrubier #adriencatel #belangerknown #laurencebelanger

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Tailfin Built a Bikepacking Setup for Slow Riding Tailfin took a ...

2026-10-19T16:23:09Z

Tailfin Built a Bikepacking Setup for Slow Riding

Tailfin took a different approach with their latest show bike, using a single design brief: slow bikepacking. Check out their Singular Peregrine with a full waxed-canvas kit designed by Tailfin’s “R&D Kitchen” here…
The post Tailfin Built a Bikepacking Setup for Slow Riding appeared first on BIKEPACKING.com.

https://bikepacking.com/news/tailfin-singular-peregrine-slow-bikepacking-kit/

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Weekend Snapshot Our latest Weekend Snapshot rounds up ...

2026-10-19T15:05:36Z

Weekend Snapshot

Our latest Weekend Snapshot rounds up reader-submitted scenes from Wales, Italy, and North Dakota. Find photos from pedal-powered jaunts around three beautiful parts of the world and share something from one of your recent getaways here...
The post Weekend Snapshot appeared first on BIKEPACKING.com.

https://bikepacking.com/news/weekend-snapshot-253/

#weekendsnapshot #northdakota #italy #wales

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Packing for the World’s Most Remote Bikepacking Route + Full ...

2026-10-19T13:46:35Z

Packing for the World’s Most Remote Bikepacking Route + Full Kit List

A change of pace from his usual travel videos, Dan Camp’s latest release offers a detailed walkthrough of the fully loaded Tumbleweed Prospector he’s been riding across the Americas for the last three years. Find the video and a complete kit list here…
The post Packing for the World’s Most Remote Bikepacking Route + Full Kit List appeared first on BIKEPACKING.com.

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#bikepackingroute #remotebikepacking #fullkit #kitlist #world #dancamp #tumbleweedprospector

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How Do You Stop Speed Wobbles or Shimmy On A Touring Bicycle? Hi ...

2026-10-19T02:35:47Z

How Do You Stop Speed Wobbles or Shimmy On A Touring Bicycle?

Hi there!
This page is only available to CyclingAbout website supporters. If you'd like to access this information as well as help to create more bike travel resources, feel free to sign-up HERE.
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All the best from the road,
Alee
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How Much Slower Are 32″ Gravel Bikes in the Wind Tunnel? ...

2026-10-19T01:22:22Z

How Much Slower Are 32″ Gravel Bikes in the Wind Tunnel?

We’ve compared 32″ gravel bikes with 29ers in timed laps, investigated their rolling resistance, and explored how larger wheels affect vibration damping.
Now, thanks to Avona Bikes, we can finally investigate their aerodynamics. Avona makes its Callis gravel bike in both 700C and 32″ versions, giving us a rare opportunity to compare their aerodynamic performance in a wind tunnel.
Larger wheels increase frontal area, but how much extra drag does that actually create? Are 32″ gravel bikes meaningfully slower in the wind, or is the aerodynamic penalty smaller than you’d expect?
Let’s take a look!
Aerodynamics of 32″ Gravel Bikes
A 32″ wheel has about 9% more frontal area than a 700C, while the matching fork adds around 7%.
These increases in size might sound significant, but when I plug them into the drag equation and account for the rider’s body, the overall effect on your speed is surprisingly small. That’s because your body accounts for around 80% of the total aerodynamic drag when you ride a bike.
For this reason, I’ve never been too concerned about the extra aerodynamic drag of a 32″ gravel bike. The potential benefits in rolling resistance, rollover capability, and grip seemed much more significant.
But now, Avona bikes have put 700C and 32″ gravel bikes in a wind tunnel, providing a unique opportunity to actually quantify the aerodynamic penalty of the larger wheels.
Avona Callis Wind Tunnel Test
To make the comparison as fair as possible, Avona matched the rider position on both bikes, keeping the handlebar and saddle at the same heights. They also used the same Faserwerk Luftschneider handlebar and width.
They tested two different wheelsets on the two bikes. The first was the Newmen Streem G.62, featuring 62 mm-deep carbon rims. The second was the Faserwerk Kornkreis, with 45 mm-deep carbon rims.
Both bikes ran 50 mm Schwalbe G-One RX Pro tyres mounted on rims with a 27 mm internal width. This ensures a similar tyre profile on all setups.
Testing took place in the GST Wind Tunnel at a wind speed of 35 km/h, with yaw angles ranging from -20° to +20°. The speed was chosen as this is typical of average gravel race speeds. If you’re cycling slower, you can expect the aerodynamic penalty to drop rapidly.
To calculate the weighted yaw results, Avona assumed that yaw angles follow a normal distribution centred on 0°, with a standard deviation of 10°. This gives the greatest weight to headwinds and near-headwind conditions, while assigning progressively less weight to larger crosswind angles.
Wind Tunnel Results
With the Newmen Streem wheels fitted, the aerodynamic difference between the 700C and 32″ bikes was just 1.2 watts. With the Faserwerk Kornkreis wheels, the difference increased to 3.1 watts.
Both results are lower than my mathematical models predicted in 2025, which estimated a difference of around 5 watts. It’s great to see that the real-world wind tunnel data is actually better than expected.
So why was the difference larger with the Faserwerk wheels? According to Avona, there are two factors at play.
First, the Newmen wheels have a deeper 62 mm rim profile, which produces negative drag at high yaw angles. This is commonly known as the sailing effect. Under these conditions, the wheels can generate an aerodynamic force that helps propel the bike forwards. Because the 32″ wheels have a larger surface area, they can generate more of this effect, helping to offset their additional drag.
You can see this in the graph between 15° and 20° yaw, where the 32″ bike with Newmen wheels starts to show a reduction in drag.
Second, the Faserwerk wheels have a shallower 45 mm rim profile compared with the Newmen’s 62 mm rims. This gives them different aerodynamic characteristics across the range of yaw angles, which also affects the overall difference between the two wheel sizes.
How Much Faster Are the Newmen Streem Wheels?
I extracted the data from Avona’s yaw graphs and applied the same weighted average for yaw angles that they used in their analysis. This allowed me to estimate the approximate aerodynamic difference between the Newmen and Faserwerk wheelsets.
At 35 km/h (22 mph), the Newmen Streem wheels, with their 62 mm-deep rims, were around 4–6 watts faster than the Faserwerk wheels, which have 45 mm-deep rims.
That’s a surprisingly large difference, and it means your choice of wheelset could have a much bigger impact on aerodynamic drag than your choice of wheel size.
Summary
700C gravel bikes are generally more aerodynamic than their larger 32″ counterparts, but the difference is smaller than you might expect. At 35 km/h, the aerodynamic penalty of a 32″ bike is just 1–3 watts, dropping to around 0.5–1 watt at 25 km/h. It’s hardly a dealbreaker.
Interestingly, the results aren’t quite so straightforward at higher yaw angles. Here, the larger 32″ wheels can generate a stronger sailing effect, potentially making them faster in certain crosswind conditions.
More importantly, the aerodynamic penalty pales in comparison to the potential rolling resistance benefits. With the same tyres fitted, 32″ wheels can offer rolling resistance savings of more than 10 watts, with the advantage likely to increase on rougher surfaces.
Ultimately, while 32″ wheels do come with a small aerodynamic disadvantage, their potential gains in rolling resistance appear far more significant.
Comfort Lab
29 vs 32″ Bikes: Do Bigger Wheels Really Increase Comfort?
byAlee Denham
April 24, 2026
Bikes
Touring & Bikepacking Bikes
32″ Wheels Against The Clock: Way Faster Than I Expected
byAlee Denham
April 16, 2026
Bike Gear
Gear
29″ vs 32″ MTB: Do Bigger Wheels Really Make Bike Handling Worse?
byAlee Denham
December 8, 2025
Bikes
20 Exciting New 32″ MTB & Gravel Bikes with 32-Inch Wheels
byAlee Denham
November 28, 2025
Bike Gear
Gear
29 vs 32″ Wheels: What’s The Fastest Wheel Size According To Science?
byAlee Denham
November 11, 2025
The post How Much Slower Are 32″ Gravel Bikes in the Wind Tunnel? appeared first on CYCLINGABOUT.com.

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Liz Ryen Wins 2026 Arizona Trail Race 800 Congratulations to Liz ...

2026-10-18T15:32:08Z

Liz Ryen Wins 2026 Arizona Trail Race 800

Congratulations to Liz Ryen, the first and only woman finisher for this year's Arizona Trail 800 race! After successfully pushing through multiple days of adverse weather in Northern Arizona, Liz completed the route in 14 days, 12 hours, and 15 minutes. See more here...
The post Liz Ryen Wins 2026 Arizona Trail Race 800 appeared first on BIKEPACKING.com.

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Free “Anatomy of a Bikepacking Trip” Poster with Every ...

2026-10-18T04:06:18Z

Free “Anatomy of a Bikepacking Trip” Poster with Every Journal!

Today is the deadline to join the Bikepacking Collective and start your membership with the 17th issue of The Bikepacking Journal, which includes a free "Anatomy of a Bikepacking Trip" fold-out poster by artist Chris McNally. Learn more and sign up here...
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Replacement Phones and Fast Times at the 2026 Arkansas High ...

2026-10-16T00:58:51Z

Replacement Phones and Fast Times at the 2026 Arkansas High Country Race

As riders in the Arkansas High Country Race settle into their fifth day of pedaling, Aaron Arnzen offers a detailed update on how the race is progressing. Find his report with photos from Aaron, Monica Foltz, and Kai Caddy here...
The post Replacement Phones and Fast Times at the 2026 Arkansas High Country Race appeared first on BIKEPACKING.com.

https://bikepacking.com/news/2026-arkansas-high-country-race-mid-update/

The Revel El Jefe Grande Has Officially Landed Teased earlier ...

2026-10-16T00:47:04Z

The Revel El Jefe Grande Has Officially Landed

Teased earlier this year through their Concept Labs program, Revel’s El Jefe Grande 32er is officially here. Based on the light, fast, XC-oriented 29″ El Jefe frame, the El Jefe Grande is a big-wheeled version that delivers the same idea. For more on this new 32er, read on below…
The post The Revel El Jefe Grande Has Officially Landed appeared first on BIKEPACKING.com.

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Lapias Bikepacking Route Illustration by Almirante Reis Lapiás ...

2026-10-16T00:35:19Z

Lapias Bikepacking Route

Illustration by Almirante Reis Lapiás (known as karren or karst) are the intricate ribbons of bare rock sculpted by water on limestone. This sculptural, labyrinthine landscape—manifested in expansive fields and […]
The post Lapias Bikepacking Route appeared first on BIKEPACKING.com.

https://bikepacking.com/routes/lapias-bikepacking-route/

Collective Reward #258: Revelate Designs Burrote Rack-Top Bags ...

2026-10-16T00:23:42Z

Collective Reward #258: Revelate Designs Burrote Rack-Top Bags

Our 258th gear giveaway comes from the small team at Revelate Designs in Alaska, who will hook up a couple of randomly selected winners with Burrote rack-top bags and matching Constrictor Straps. Find details on how you can win and sign up to support our work as a member of the Bikepacking Collective here...
The post Collective Reward #258: Revelate Designs Burrote Rack-Top Bags appeared first on BIKEPACKING.com.

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Find Fall 2026 Merch in our Web Shop Now Yesterday, we gave ...

2026-10-15T23:59:58Z

Find Fall 2026 Merch in our Web Shop Now

Yesterday, we gave Bikepacking Collective members first dibs on our latest fall merchandise drop, featuring fresh stickers, restocked tees and bottles, and returning favorites like maps and ATB sticker sheets. A few items have already been snapped up, but there's still plenty left, and we're now opening the shop to everyone. Browse the collection here…
The post Find Fall 2026 Merch in our Web Shop Now appeared first on BIKEPACKING.com.

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The Spot Rocker Carbon Gen 3 Can Run Gears or Belt Drive Drawing ...

2026-10-15T23:48:22Z

The Spot Rocker Carbon Gen 3 Can Run Gears or Belt Drive

Drawing on data from its earlier steel and titanium hardtails, Spot Bikes has released a new Rocker Carbon hardtail. Designed to feel like a metal bike without the weight penalty, the Rocker packs a series of features that make it an intriguing option in 2026…
The post The Spot Rocker Carbon Gen 3 Can Run Gears or Belt Drive appeared first on BIKEPACKING.com.

https://bikepacking.com/news/spot-rocker-carbon-gen-3-intro/

Gear Overload: Unpacking 13 Years of Bikepacking Bags Neil has ...

2026-10-15T23:36:53Z

Gear Overload: Unpacking 13 Years of Bikepacking Bags

Neil has used tons of bags and gear-hauling systems over the years. From his days as a racer to his recent exploration of modern design, he has bins full of bags and racks that show how carrying stuff has changed since he started bikepacking. In his latest video, he digs through his boxes of bags and explains what worked, what didn't, and why. Watch the full video below...
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Reader’s Rig: Mer’s 1996 DEAN Colonel Our Reader's Rig of ...

2026-10-15T23:25:24Z

Reader’s Rig: Mer’s 1996 DEAN Colonel

Our Reader's Rig of the week comes from Mer in Arkansas, who shares the 1996 DEAN Colonel she bought for $200 and thoughtfully rebuilt into a showstopper that balances budget-friendly and boutique bits. Meet Mer and see her DEAN here...
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The Tout Terrain Catalina is a Derailleur-Driven Bikepacking ...

2026-10-15T23:02:16Z

The Tout Terrain Catalina is a Derailleur-Driven Bikepacking Hardtail

German brand Tout Terrain is shaking things up with today’s announcement of its debut drailleur-based 29er, the Catalina, which is also its first model offered as a standalone frame kit. Learn more about the new Pinion-less Tout Terrain Catalina steel hardtail here…
The post The Tout Terrain Catalina is a Derailleur-Driven Bikepacking Hardtail appeared first on BIKEPACKING.com.

https://bikepacking.com/news/tout-terrain-catalina-hardtail-intro/

Calling All Readers: We Need Your Support! Facing an uncertain ...

2026-10-15T22:50:28Z

Calling All Readers: We Need Your Support!

Facing an uncertain future, we’re calling on all of our readers to help us preserve this unparalleled resource and chart a sustainable path ahead. If you’re a regular visitor, please consider joining the Bikepacking Collective to support our work as a member today. Find an important update and learn about the value we offer our backers for as little as $3.25 per month here...
The post Calling All Readers: We Need Your Support! appeared first on BIKEPACKING.com.

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Alex Schultz Wins 2026 Arizona Trail Race Massive congratulations ...

2026-10-15T22:38:57Z

Alex Schultz Wins 2026 Arizona Trail Race

Massive congratulations to Alex Schultz, who finished the 2026 Arizona Trail Race last night in 8 days, 14 hours, and 16 minutes, marking his third first-place finish at the event. Wyatt Spalding was at the finish in Flagstaff to capture it all...
The post Alex Schultz Wins 2026 Arizona Trail Race appeared first on BIKEPACKING.com.

https://bikepacking.com/news/alex-schultz-wins-2026-arizona-trail-race/

Michelle Roth Wins 2026 Arkansas High Country Race! Hats off to ...

2026-10-15T21:40:59Z

Michelle Roth Wins 2026 Arkansas High Country Race!

Hats off to Michelle Roth, the first woman to complete the 2026 Arkansas High Country Race and the fourth-place finisher overall! Beyond taking the women's win, Michelle also set a new FKT for the singletrack variation of the challenging 1,020-mile route across the Natural State. Learn more here...
The post Michelle Roth Wins 2026 Arkansas High Country Race! appeared first on BIKEPACKING.com.

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There’s No “AI” in Print: A Peek at The Bikepacking Journal ...

2026-10-15T21:29:25Z

There’s No “AI” in Print: A Peek at The Bikepacking Journal 17

In a world increasingly flooded with AI-generated imagery, we're doubling down on the real thing. Issue 17 of The Bikepacking Journal celebrates human creativity with commissioned artwork, hand-illustrated maps, and a beautiful poster-sized print. We're excited to share a sneak peek. Find out what's coming and reserve your copy before the October 17th deadline here…
The post There’s No “AI” in Print: A Peek at The Bikepacking Journal 17 appeared first on BIKEPACKING.com.

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Introducing Route Alerts: A Call for Route Stewardship Keeping ...

2026-10-15T20:45:37Z

Introducing Route Alerts: A Call for Route Stewardship

Keeping our global bikepacking route network accurate, accessible, and up to date is no small task. Today, we're launching an expanded Route Alerts system to help riders navigate changing conditions, identify potential hazards, and help improve and preserve our routes. Learn about the five new alert categories and how you can help keep this community-driven resource rolling smoothly for future bikepackers…
The post Introducing Route Alerts: A Call for Route Stewardship appeared first on BIKEPACKING.com.

https://bikepacking.com/news/bikepacking-route-alerts/

30+ Fast Gravel Bikes with Wide Tyre Clearance (57mm / 2.25″ ...

2026-10-15T19:29:25Z

30+ Fast Gravel Bikes with Wide Tyre Clearance (57mm / 2.25″ MTB Tyres)

Wide tyre clearance has become one of the defining features of modern gravel bikes. Not because every rider needs massive tyres, but because clearance for MTB tyres gives you the freedom to choose the tyres that best suit your riding.
Only a few years ago, a frame that accepted 45mm tyres was considered generous. Today, many manufacturers are designing gravel bikes around 50mm tyres, while an increasing number of models officially accommodate 57mm (2.25in) mountain bike tyres.
Part of the reason is that lightweight XC mountain bike tyres have become increasingly common in gravel racing. Riders tackling long, technical events have discovered that wider tyres can provide a faster overall package than narrower gravel tyres. Meanwhile, adventure riders have embraced larger tyres because they open the door to rougher tracks and more remote backcountry routes.
In this article, I’ve compiled a comprehensive list of 30+ performance-oriented gravel bikes that officially accept tyres measuring 57mm (2.25″) or wider. These bikes prioritise lower riding positions, racier geometries and lighter-weight builds. A separate article will cover more adventure-focused gravel bikes with taller front ends, more relaxed handling and features better suited to long-distance exploration.
Let’s get into it!
Why Wider Tyres Can Be Faster
Mads Würtz Schmidt recently won the Unbound 200 on a Specialized Crux 5 with wide gravel tyres.
Tyres influence the ride quality of a bike more than almost any other component. A simple tyre change can transform comfort, grip, impact protection and even speed.
Over the years, I’ve steadily increased the tyre widths I ride, and each step has felt like an upgrade. Larger tyres have consistently improved comfort and grip while bringing surprisingly little penalty on the road. I’ve most recently been testing Schwalbe G-One RX Pro gravel tyres in a 60mm width, and the combination of comfort and speed has cemented my belief that the trend toward wider tyres is well justified.
At first glance, it seems counterintuitive that a tyre approaching mountain bike dimensions could roll as efficiently as a much narrower gravel tyre. The explanation, however, isn’t simply the width of the tyre itself.
Many wide tyres use lighter, more supple casings because their larger air volume provides greater protection against impacts and pinch flats. This means they can sometimes achieve lower rolling resistance than narrower gravel tyres that rely on thicker, heavier casings for durability.
You can see this trend in the rolling resistance data from John Karrasch’s CRR Testing Database. His outdoor rolling resistance testing shows that wider tyres tend to perform better than narrower ones. On smoother “Cat 1″ gravel, eight of the ten fastest tyres tested are wider than 53mm (2.1”). That increases to nine out of ten on “Cat 2” gravel, while every tyre in the top ten on the rougher “Cat 3” surface is wider than 53mm.
There is, of course, a limit on tyre width. Not everyone benefits from maximum tyre volume. Eventually, wider tyres become heavy enough that the additional weight, rolling resistance, and aerodynamic drag outweigh the gains in efficiency. Exactly where that tipping point lies depends on the gravel surface, riding speed, rider weight and much more.
The Trade-Offs of Wide Tyre Clearance
A Rodeo Flaanimal 6.0 equipped with 2.4″ wide gravel tyres.
There are a few compromises to be aware of when it comes to gravel bikes with wide tyre clearance.
The first is that you will generally be limited to a 1X drivetrain. This is already the default choice on most modern gravel bikes, so it will only matter to some.
With a very wide rear tyre, there is limited room around the chainstays, seatstays and chainring area for a front derailleur, and this forces manufacturers to design their bikes for 1X only. Some frames do still allow a front derailleur, but in those cases, the maximum tyre clearance drops to around 45 to 48mm at the rear.
The second compromise is a slightly wider crankset q-factor. To create enough space for larger tyres, manufacturers typically increase the spindle width by a total of 5mm. This results in a wider stance, which some people don’t like the feel of. A road crankset with a 145mm Q-factor becomes 150mm on a gravel bike with wide tyre clearance. It’s not a lot, but it may matter if you’re sensitive to crankset dimensions.
The final consideration is that these bikes often have a minimum tyre size of around 45mm. This is because the frames are designed around larger-diameter tyres, so manufacturers will typically increase the bottom bracket drop to keep the rider’s centre of gravity lower and maintain appropriate handling.
Installing a significantly narrower tyre can lower the bottom bracket height by too much. This can leave the pedals closer to the ground, increasing the risk of pedal strikes when cornering.
Why Tyre Clearance Matters When Buying a Gravel Bike
Given how much tyres influence a bike’s speed, comfort and capability, I’d always lean toward choosing a frame with a little extra clearance. The compromises will be small to most riders, but the range of possibilities it opens up is substantial.
The advantage of a gravel bike with generous tyre clearance is the flexibility it provides. As your riding evolves, you might find yourself exploring rougher roads, tackling more technical trails or heading further off the beaten track. In those situations, fitting larger tyres can significantly expand what your bike is capable of without replacing the frame.
Conversely, a bike limited to 45mm clearance gives you much less room to adapt if your preferences change. If you eventually decide you need more tyre volume, upgrading will require replacing the frame entirely.
Gravel Bikes With MTB Tyre Clearance
3T Extrema Italia
3T Extrema Italia
Carbon Frame
2.25″ or 57mm Clearance
8bar Mitte Ti
8Bar Mitte Ti
Titanium Frame
2.25″ or 57mm Clearance
Allied ABLE
Allied ABLE
Carbon Frame
2.25″ or 57mm Clearance
Argon 18 Anti Matter
Argon 18 Anti Matter
Carbon Frame
2.2″ or 55mm Clearance (57mm Unofficially)
Ari Shafer
Ari Shafer
Carbon Frame
2.25″ or 57mm Clearance
Bearclaw Beaux Jaxon
Bearclaw Beaux Jaxon
Titanium Frame
2.6″ or 65mm Clearance
Blackwater Splitfire
Blackwater Spitfire
Titanium Frame
2.25″ or 57mm Clearance
Canyon Grail CF
Canyon Grail CF
Carbon Frame
2.25″ or 57mm Clearance
Chiru Fukai
Chiru Fukai
Titanium Frame
2.6″ or 65mm Clearance
Cloud Adventure
Cloud Adventure
Titanium Frame
2.2″ or 55mm Clearance
Curve Big Kev
Curve Big Kev
Titanium Frame
2.35″ or 60mm Clearance
Factor Elara
Factor Elara
Carbon Frame
2.25″ or 57mm Clearance
Factor Sarana
Factor Sarana
Carbon Frame
2.25″ or 57mm Clearance
Fara GR4
Fara GR4
Carbon Frame
2.25″ or 57mm Clearance
J.Laverack Grit 57
J.Laverack Grit 57
Titanium Frame
2.25″ or 57mm Clearance
Lauf Seigla
Lauf Seigla
Carbon Frame
2.25″ or 57mm Clearance
Leon Frameworks Monstra
Leon Frameworks Monstra
Titanium Frame
2.6″ or 65mm Clearance
Manzanita Whippet
Manzanita Whippet
Steel Frame
2.25″ or 57mm Clearance
Moots Routt
Moots Routt
Titanium Frame
2.25″ or 57mm Clearance
No.22 Drifter
No.22 Drifter
Titanium Frame
2.25″ or 56mm Clearance
Obed MMR
OBED MMR
Carbon Frame
2.25″ or 57mm Clearance
OPEN WI.DE 2.0
OPEN WI.DE 2.0
Carbon Frame
2.6″ or 65mm Clearance
Pine Cycles FRST
Pine FRST
Steel Frame
2.25″ or 58mm Clearance
Ridley Kanzo Fast 2.0
Ridley Kanzo Fast 2.0
Carbon Frame
2.25″ or 58mm Clearance
Rodeo Flaanimal 6.0
Rodeo Flaanimal 6.0
Steel Frame
2.4″ or 61mm Clearance
Sauvage Le Baroudeur
Sauvage Le Baroudeur
Titanium Frame
2.4″ or 61mm Clearance
Scott Addict Gravel
Scott Addict Gravel
Carbon Frame
2.25″ or 57mm Clearance
Seven Gravel 758
Seven Gravel 758
Carbon Frame
2.25″ or 58mm Clearance
Sling Tageti
Sling Tageti
Titanium Frame
2.4″ or 61mm Clearance
Singular Kite Ti
Singular Kite Ti
Titanium Frame
2.2″ or 55mm Clearance
Solace OM-3
Solace OM-3
Titanium Frame
2.2″ or 55mm Clearance
Sour Purple Haze
Sour Purple Haze
Steel Frame
2.2″ or 55mm Clearance
Specialized Crux 5
Specialized Crux 5
Carbon Frame
2.2″ or 55mm Clearance (57mm unofficially)
Storm Makai
Storm Makai
Carbon Frame
2.35″ or 60mm Clearance
Thomson Thomahawk
Thomson Thomahawk
Titanium Frame
2.25″ or 57mm Clearance
Tritao Aveiro
Tritao Aveiro
Titanium Frame
2.25″ or 58mm Clearance
Weis Gravel Steel Plus
Weis Gravel Steel Plus
Steel Frame
2.35″ or 60mm Clearance
Wikkit L-Nino
Wikkit L-Nino
Aluminium Frame
2.35″ or 60mm Clearance
Wilde Heighliner
Wilde Heighlander
Titanium Frame
2.25″ or 58mm Clearance
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The post 30+ Fast Gravel Bikes with Wide Tyre Clearance (57mm / 2.25″ MTB Tyres) appeared first on CYCLINGABOUT.com.

https://www.cyclingabout.com/fast-gravel-bikes-wide-tyre-clearance-mtb-tyres/

How To Make Your Waterproof Rain Jacket Much Better For Under ...

2026-10-15T19:08:45Z

How To Make Your Waterproof Rain Jacket Much Better For Under $10!

Weather can change quickly, particularly on long rides and multi-day tours. That makes a waterproof jacket one of the most important pieces of cycling clothing you can own.
Waterproof rain jackets are just as important for staying warm as they are for staying dry and comfortable. When your clothing gets wet, your body loses heat much faster. Water conducts heat around 25 times more effectively than air, drawing warmth away from your skin far faster than dry clothing. Add the cooling effects of wind and evaporation, and you quickly realise that staying dry is key to staying warm.
When an older waterproof jacket stops keeping you dry, it’s easy to assume that it has simply “worn out”. In reality, most waterproof jackets can regain much of their original performance with the right care and maintenance.
In this article, you’ll learn why waterproof jackets stop working, how to restore their performance, and how to stay drier on the bike.
Why Waterproof Cycling Jackets Stop Working
If you’ve ever finished a rainy ride soaked in sweat, you might think your waterproof jacket has failed. In many cases, the jacket hasn’t failed; it simply needs a good clean.
Sweat, body oils, sunscreen, insect repellent and everyday grime can build up on the inside of a waterproof jacket, interfering with the membrane’s ability to transport moisture vapour. A thorough clean can remove this buildup and help restore much of the jacket’s original breathability.
But wait… what exactly is a waterproof membrane?
What Is a Waterproof Membrane?
The waterproof membrane is what makes the jacket waterproof, and it’s usually bonded between the outer fabric and an inner layer. Some membranes are microporous, containing millions of microscopic pores per square centimetre. These pores are small enough to prevent liquid water from passing through while allowing water vapour to escape.
Most quality cycling rain jackets use either a 2.5-layer or 3-layer construction. A 3-layer jacket uses a full inner fabric layer laminated to the membrane, providing greater durability and protection. A 2.5-layer jacket replaces this inner layer with a thin protective coating, reducing weight and making the jacket more packable.
Contrary to how they’re often marketed, waterproof membranes don’t really “breathe”. A more accurate description is that they are moisture permeable. Water vapour moves through the membrane because of a difference in vapour pressure between the inside and outside of the jacket. In simple terms, warm, humid air inside your jacket tends to move towards the cooler, drier air outside.
This means waterproof membranes work best when:
It’s cool and relatively dry outside.
It’s warm and humid inside the jacket.
The outer fabric remains dry (this will be important later in the article).
When it’s actively raining, the air outside is often close to saturation, reducing the vapour pressure difference across the membrane. However, because the air inside your jacket is usually warmer and more humid, water vapour can still move through the membrane, albeit at a slower rate.
The Hidden Performance Killer
Even if your jacket is perfectly clean, it may still not be working effectively. This is likely because the outer fabric has become saturated with water – a process known as wetting out.
When the outer fabric is soaked, it becomes much harder for moisture vapour to escape through the membrane. The resulting reduction in the vapour pressure difference across the membrane can cause sweat to build up inside the jacket.
So, the next thing we need to do is prevent wetting out.
How To Make Your Waterproof Jacket Actually Work
Applying a Durable Water Repellent (DWR) treatment involves treating the outer fabric of a waterproof jacket with a water-repellent chemical. It coats the individual fibres of the face fabric, increasing the contact angle of water droplets. This causes rain to bead up and roll off the surface rather than soaking into the fabric, helping to prevent wetting out while leaving the spaces between the fibres open for moisture vapour to pass through.
DWR coatings gradually wear away through abrasion, repeated washing and regular use. If you regularly carry a backpack or hydration pack, you can also expect the treatment to wear faster around the shoulders.
When the DWR has worn away, you can restore it with either a spray-on or wash-in treatment. Both can work well, although I’ve personally had excellent results using Nikwax wash-in products because they’re easier to apply and typically get a more even coating across the jacket.
How To Clean Your Jacket
It’s easy to clean and add DWR. Simply pour the liquids directly into your washing machine drawer and run a cycle.
Cleaning removes sweat, body oils, sunscreen, insect repellent and grime that can affect the jacket’s breathability, and adding DWR after restores the water-repellent finish on the outer fabric. Think of it like waxing a car: you always wash it before applying the wax.
Avoid using household detergent to clean waterproof jackets wherever possible. Conventional detergents can contain additives such as fabric softeners and brighteners that leave residues on the fabric, which can interfere with the jacket’s breathability and DWR finish. Fabric softeners are particularly problematic because they coat the fibres and can significantly reduce water repellency.
For cleaning, I use around 50 ml of Nikwax Tech Wash per garment. It’s designed specifically for waterproof clothing and cleans the fabric without leaving the residues associated with conventional detergents. At the quantities I typically buy, this works out to around $1–2 per jacket.
Tech Wash is available in bottles ranging from 300 ml (US $11 on Amazon) to 5 litres (US $113 on Amazon).
Before washing, I thoroughly clean out the detergent drawer and run an empty rinse cycle through the washing machine to flush out any remaining detergent or fabric softener. I then zip up all the zippers, fasten any Velcro tabs, and put the jacket and Tech Wash into the machine.
How To Apply A DWR Coating
For the DWR treatment, I use 100 ml of Nikwax TX Direct in the washing machine and run a 30-minute cycle with my jacket inside. At the quantities I typically buy, this works out to around $5.00 per garment, but it can be as cheap as $2.50 when you buy it in bulk. Nikwax TX Direct is currently available in bottles ranging from 300 ml (US $15 on Amazon) to 5 litres (US $130 on Amazon).
Afterwards, I allow the jacket to dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions and then apply gentle heat if recommended. Heat can help activate and improve the durability of some DWR treatments. Depending on the product and jacket, this may mean around five minutes in a tumble dryer on low heat or gentle ironing through a cloth. Always follow the care instructions for your particular jacket and DWR treatment.
How Often Should You Apply DWR To Your Jacket?
Cleaning and applying DWR go hand in hand, but you don’t necessarily need to add DWR to your jacket every time you wash it. If water still beads up and rolls off the outer fabric, there’s no need to add DWR yet. If the fabric absorbs water rather than repelling it, it’s time to restore the DWR.
The optimal coating interval depends on how frequently you use your jacket and the conditions you ride in. I typically only add DWR to my waterproof gear with Nikwax TX Direct once or twice a year.
That said, simply keeping your jacket clean will significantly improve its ability to move moisture. And if your rain jacket is covered in mud, it’s worth rinsing it off before storing it. Dried mud can be abrasive and may accelerate wear of the DWR coating.
Ventilation Beats Any Membrane
Pit zips are a great way to dump warm air and moisture in a waterproof cycling jacket.
We’ve now covered how to keep your jacket functioning as well as possible, but here’s the deal: no waterproof membrane can move moisture as effectively as fresh air. Even a perfectly maintained waterproof jacket has its limits.
A cyclist climbing at moderate to high intensity can produce hundreds of grams of sweat per hour – far more moisture than a waterproof membrane can transport. Eventually, you’ll become wet from the inside, and once your base layers are soaked, even the best waterproof fabrics will struggle to catch up.
That’s why ventilation is so important. Simply opening your front zip slightly during a long climb can release a surprising amount of heat before sweat has a chance to build up. Likewise, removing an insulating layer, easing your pace slightly, or increasing airflow early (before you overheat!) will often keep you much drier than relying on the jacket alone.
When choosing a cycling rain jacket, look for features that allow humid air to escape directly. Pit zips are particularly effective, while chest vents, rear exhaust vents and two-way front zippers can also provide useful additional ventilation.
Don’t Forget Softshell Jackets & Ponchos
Heavy downpours in Tanzania are best dealt with using a poncho rather than a waterproof rain jacket.
Sometimes the best solution isn’t a waterproof jacket at all. Every jacket design involves a trade-off between waterproofing, moisture management and ventilation. The trick is choosing the right compromise for the conditions you’ll be riding in.
Riders expecting long hours of cold, persistent rain will want to prioritise waterproofing. But those riding hard in milder or changeable conditions may be better off sacrificing some rain protection in exchange for much better moisture management.
Softshell jackets allow air and moisture to pass through the fabric much more freely than waterproof jackets. They’re often the better choice for high-intensity riding, where overheating can be a bigger concern than staying completely dry. I frequently apply DWR to my softshell wind jacket, which helps water bead up and roll off the surface.
Ponchos, on the other hand, can be an excellent choice for cycling in hot, humid climates. They keep your legs and even your shoes dry while allowing plenty of airflow underneath to help you stay cool. I use a Cleverhood Rover rain cape for most of my adventures.
However, ponchos can be miserable in cold or windy conditions. They ventilate so well that you can quickly become cold, and strong winds can cause them to flap around and catch the wind.
Summary
Keeping your jacket clean, regularly restoring its DWR treatment and using ventilation effectively will help ensure that whichever jacket you choose performs as well as possible when the weather turns against you. The performance of a clean, well-maintained $100 jacket can easily be better than that of a poorly maintained $500 jacket.
If you’ve cleaned and applied DWR to your jacket and you’re still getting excessively sweaty inside, the problem may not be the jacket at all. You may simply be producing more heat and moisture than it can move away. In that case, consider switching to a softshell or windproof jacket treated with DWR.
And for hotter and more humid conditions, a poncho will be an even better option.
You can support my content by purchasing your cleaning and DWR products on Amazon. It’s at no cost to you and allows me to continue creating high-quality resources:
Click HERE for Nikwax Tech Wash (for cleaning your jacket)
Click HERE for Nikwax TX Direct (for applying a DWR layer)
The post How To Make Your Waterproof Rain Jacket Much Better For Under $10! appeared first on CYCLINGABOUT.com.

https://www.cyclingabout.com/why-your-waterproof-jacket-isnt-working-how-to-make-it-work-again/

Check out the Titanium Sonder Rubicon Gravel+ Adventure Bike ...

2026-10-15T18:25:37Z

Check out the Titanium Sonder Rubicon Gravel+ Adventure Bike

Building on their popular Camino all-roader, the new Sonder Rubicon is a titanium gravel-plus bike they call “the Goldilocks of mixed terrain.” Learn more about the UK brand’s latest model here…
The post Check out the Titanium Sonder Rubicon Gravel+ Adventure Bike appeared first on BIKEPACKING.com.

https://bikepacking.com/news/sonder-rubicon-intro/

How the World’s Most Advanced Bike Research Lab Measures ...

2026-10-15T16:45:12Z

How the World’s Most Advanced Bike Research Lab Measures Bicycle Comfort

Bicycle comfort has received a lot more attention in recent years, with an increasing number of companies developing products designed to make bikes more comfortable.
As a website that loves both comfort and data, we’ve spent a lot of time here at CYCLINGABOUT investigating, testing, measuring, and reviewing these products.
But Trek’s Performance Research Team has taken the science of bicycle comfort a step further. This group of biomechanical engineers, physiologists, and instrumentation specialists began building its dedicated research laboratory around 2018, creating a controlled environment to study how bicycles and their components interact with the rider.
Over several years, the team developed testing equipment, protocols, and analysis techniques to quantify what happens when a bicycle encounters rough terrain, and importantly, what happens to the rider as a result. The outcome is a fascinating body of research that provides new insights into what makes a bicycle comfortable.
In this article, we’ll look at how Trek’s research lab works, how it measures the interaction between bicycle and rider, and what its testing reveals. We’ll then examine data from two road bikes and three gravel bikes, including a fascinating comparison between a rigid and full-suspension gravel bike.
Let’s get into it!
What Is Bicycle Comfort?
Trek primarily defines bicycle comfort in terms of vibrational power: the amount of energy transmitted to the rider as they travel over a given surface. The less energy that reaches the rider at a given speed and surface condition, the more comfortable the ride.
This is also the principle behind the CYCLINGABOUT Comfort Lab, where we have measured the vibration-reducing performance of more than 50 products using a controlled obstacle.
At the rear of the bicycle, three key components determine how much vibration reaches the rider: the tyre, frame and seatpost. The seatpost, for example, can be designed with vertical compliance, allowing it to flex when the bike encounters bumps and reducing the vibration transmitted to the rider.
At the front, the equivalent components are the tyre, fork and handlebars. Like a compliant seatpost, the fork and handlebars can flex to absorb some of the vibration before it reaches the rider’s hands.
How Trek Measures the Rider and Bike Together
Trek ultimately designed its Performance Research Lab to study the interaction between rider and bicycle under realistic, dynamic loading.
When a bicycle hits a bump, for example, the rider may instinctively change how they interact with the bike by relaxing their elbows or slightly lifting themselves from the saddle. Trek can quantify this interaction by measuring the forces between the rider and bicycle at the three primary contact points.
At the centre of the Performance Research Lab is a slat-based Woodway treadmill. Trek can attach different riding surfaces to the treadmill, allowing its engineers to reproduce controlled surface conditions while the rider pedals normally. This helps eliminate variables such as line choice while keeping speed and surface conditions consistent.
Trek instruments the bikes it tests with force-sensing saddles and handlebars. Strain gauges measure the forces transmitted through the saddle, left hand and right hand.
The current system measures these forces at more than 5,000 samples per second. Accelerometers at the same locations measure acceleration, which can then be integrated to determine velocity.
By combining force and velocity measurements, Trek can calculate the power being transferred through each contact point. This gives its engineers a quantitative measure of how much vibrational energy is reaching the rider.
Measuring Bike and Rider Motion
The way the bicycle and rider move in response to the terrain can provide another measure of comfort. According to Trek, comfort isn’t determined solely by how much the bicycle vibrates; it also depends on how strongly the rider is coupled to the bicycle.
To measure this interaction, Trek uses three-dimensional motion capture. Twelve OptiTrack infrared cameras track the movement of the rider and bicycle as they travel over the treadmill. Reflective markers are placed on different parts of the bicycle and rider, allowing Trek to measure how individual components respond to surface inputs in three-dimensional space.
Trek can then compare the movement of different parts of the system. Markers around the bottom bracket show how the bicycle responds to the terrain, while markers on the saddle and rider’s pelvis show how the rider responds to the bicycle.
One particularly interesting relationship for Trek is between the pelvis and saddle. Trek uses markers around the rider’s sacrum (tailbone) and on the saddle to quantify this relationship.
A more comfortable bike allows the rider to remain planted on the saddle, with the sacrum and saddle moving together. In other words, even over rough terrain, the pelvis and saddle should remain relatively well coupled as the bicycle responds to the surface.
In comparison, a less comfortable bike may cause the rider to be bounced away from the saddle, or prompt them to deliberately hover slightly above it to reduce the impact. Both situations produce greater variation in the distance between the saddle and sacrum, indicating weaker coupling between the rider and bicycle. This is likely to result in a less comfortable ride that also requires more physical effort.
Treadmill Testing Two Road Bikes
Let’s now look at how Trek applied this testing system to two generations of its Domane road bike.
A Trek Domane Gen 4 and Gen 5 were tested against each other at speeds ranging from 11 to 32 km/h (7–20 mph), while Trek also varied tyre pressure. This allowed the engineers to compare the two bikes across a range of realistic riding speeds and tyre pressures, while keeping the surface conditions controlled.
The older Gen 4 Domane uses Trek’s Isospeed system, a decoupled seatpost and seat tube that is designed to improve overall comfort by allowing the saddle to move vertically. The Gen 4 bike was tested with both 25mm and 32mm-wide tyres.
Trek’s Isospeed decoupler on the Gen 4 Domane allows the seat tube to flex vertically.
The latest Gen 5 Domane uses a conventional round seatpost and was tested with 35mm tyres. Despite using a simpler seatpost design, the Gen 5 is also 300 grams lighter because it no longer requires the Isospeed decoupler.
For the 25mm tyres, Trek used a tyre pressure recommendation based on its own historical data. For the 32mm and 35mm tyres, Trek established a baseline pressure using the Wolf Tooth Pressure Calculator, which considers factors including surface conditions, combined bike and rider weight, tyre size and tyre construction.
Road Bike Vibrational Power Results
Tyre / PressureVibrational PowerVibration TransmittedGen 4 Domane25mm / 93 psi12.1 WBaselineGen 4 Domane32mm / 48 psi9.0 W25.6% LessGen 5 Domane35mm / 44 psi9.3 W23.1% Less
When we look at the Gen 4 Domane results, the first thing that stands out is the effect of tyre size and pressure. Comparing the higher-pressure 25mm tyres with the lower-pressure 32mm tyres, vibrational power was reduced by almost 26% on Trek’s treadmill.
That’s a substantial improvement from a relatively simple change. So, if you’re looking to make a bicycle more comfortable, wider tyres and lower pressures are an obvious place to start.
Despite losing the Isospeed decoupler, the new Gen 5 Domane’s conventional round compliance seatpost produced a similar result to the Gen 4 when paired with its wider 35mm tyres. Vibrational power was within 6% of the Gen 4 with 32mm tyres. In practical terms, that difference would likely be difficult to notice.
It would have been interesting to see the Gen 4 Domane tested with 35mm tyres and the Gen 5 Domane with 32mm tyres. I suspect the gap between the two bikes would widen if they were tested with equivalent tyre sizes and pressures.
Trek also compared the two bikes using its saddle-to-sacrum coupling measurement.
According to Trek, the trends remained consistent across the tested speeds, but the engineers focussed on 32 km/h (20 mph) because this speed produced the greatest vertical displacement of the bike over the treadmill surface.
Between the Gen 4 with 32mm tyres and the Gen 5 with 35mm tyres, saddle-to-sacrum coupling differed by just 0.11mm, while vertical bottom-bracket displacement differed by only 0.08mm.
In other words, the two generations of Domane produced remarkably similar measurements for both rider and frame movement, despite the Gen 5 abandoning the Isospeed seatpost decoupler.
Rigid vs Full Suspension Gravel Bike Test
Things get even more interesting when we look at how Trek’s lab tested its full-suspension gravel bike against a conventional rigid gravel bike.
On the treadmill, Trek can measure the saddle’s rising and falling motion, as well as the forces generated as the rider weights and unweights the saddle. It can also measure the compression and rebound energy at the saddle.
Trek can then combine these measurements into a single vibrational comfort metric for each treadmill run called RMS power. Research from the University of Sherbrooke has shown that RMS power correlates strongly with dynamic comfort.
Trek can plot multiple measurements on a single graph, allowing its engineers to visualise both how the saddle moves and how much energy is involved in that movement for the rigid and full-suspension gravel bikes.
As you can see, the full-suspension gravel bike produces a noticeably more compact plot, with far fewer measurements falling into the high-power zones than the rigid gravel bike. This shows that the full-suspension bike produces lower forces at the saddle during rising, falling, weighting and unweighting events.
Comfort Across Different Frequencies
To better understand where vibrational energy goes, Trek can determine how that energy is distributed across different frequencies using cross-power spectral density analysis.
The frequency of a vibration can tell us a lot about the type of terrain producing it. Low-frequency vibrations below 10 Hz are more representative of slower impacts, such as riding over a log or large rock. High-frequency vibrations above 30 Hz, meanwhile, are more representative of riding quickly over the repetitive bumps of a gravel road.
Trek also separates the data into the energy absorbed by and rebounded from the rider’s body at the saddle. Absorbed energy (left graph above) is typically associated with energy loss, fatigue and tissue strain, while rebounded energy (right graph above) is more closely associated with bounciness and general saddle discomfort.
Interestingly, the differences between the rigid and full-suspension bikes were greatest at the lower frequencies in both graphs. This suggests that the biggest comfort advantage of full suspension occurs when dealing with slower, larger impacts below 10 Hz, rather than the fast, repetitive bumps encountered when riding quickly over gravel.
Our CYCLINGABOUT testing supports this finding, showing that suspension can be much less effective at higher frequencies on fast gravel roads. In fact, we measured virtually zero difference between a Lefty gravel suspension fork when locked and unlocked at 35 km/h on a fast gravel road.
Vibrational Energy Test
SpeedRigid Bike 50mm Tyres (Vibrational Energy)Full Sus 50mm Tyres (Vibrational Energy)Full Sus 55mm Tyres (Vibrational Energy)6 mph / 9.7 kphBaseline54% Less65% Less9 mph / 14.5 kphBaseline52% Less56% Less12 mph / 19.3 kphBaseline43% Less54% Less15 mph / 24.1 kphBaseline34% Less44% Less18 mph / 29.0 kphBaseline32% Less40% LessAverageBaseline41.5% Less48.7% Less
When Trek compared its full-suspension gravel bike with the rigid gravel bike on the treadmill, the difference in vibrational energy was significant.
The advantage was greatest at lower speeds, where the full-suspension bike produced up to 65% less vibrational energy at the saddle. At the highest tested speed, the reduction was smaller, but still substantial at 32%.
It turns out suspension really is comfortable… shocking, I know!
Interestingly, increasing tyre width by another 5mm had a relatively small effect on vibrational energy. Within the range of tyre widths Trek tested, this suggests that the suspension system was responsible for much of the comfort improvement, rather than the additional tyre volume.
Saddle to Sacrum Test
When it came to the saddle-to-sacrum coupling test, the differences between the rigid and full-suspension bikes were even more pronounced.
Averaged across all tested speeds, the full-suspension bike showed a 27% reduction in saddle-to-sacrum separation with 50 mm tyres, and a 32% reduction with 55 mm tyres.
In other words, the rider on the full-suspension bike remained more closely coupled to the saddle, staying seated more consistently than the rider on the rigid bike while riding over the same surface.
Summary
Trek’s Performance Research Lab takes a scientific approach to understanding bicycle comfort, using sophisticated sensors and motion-capture tech to measure what happens to both the bike and rider over controlled surfaces.
The testing reveals how factors such as tyre size, tyre pressure and suspension elements influence vibrational energy and rider movement.
Together, these measurements provide a much more detailed picture of comfort than subjective impressions alone, ultimately providing some very useful insight into why some bikes and components feel more comfortable than others.
The post How the World’s Most Advanced Bike Research Lab Measures Bicycle Comfort appeared first on CYCLINGABOUT.com.

https://www.cyclingabout.com/how-the-worlds-most-advanced-bike-research-lab-measures-bicycle-comfort/

Last Call for The Bikepacking Journal 17! Our fall member drive ...

2026-10-15T15:50:10Z

Last Call for The Bikepacking Journal 17!

Our fall member drive ends Saturday, the cutoff to join the Bikepacking Collective and start your membership with The Bikepacking Journal 17. Don’t miss out! Learn about the upcoming issue, find a recap of $12,000 in giveaways, browse 110+member discounts, and sign up to support our work here...
The post Last Call for The Bikepacking Journal 17! appeared first on BIKEPACKING.com.

https://bikepacking.com/news/last-bikepacking-journal-17/

Hot Taco: testing new strategies at my shortest and hottest ...

2026-10-15T15:01:09Z

Hot Taco: testing new strategies at my shortest and hottest bikepacking race

Last weekend I rode the Hot Taco Bikepacking Race, a unique all-women bikepacking challenge out of Boise, Idaho. I went in expecting hot weather, a hard but not-too-long course, and fantastic community. Hot Taco delivered on all three.
If there’s one place I can always count on for good bikepacking vibes, it’s Boise. The Idaho Smoke ‘n’ Fire 400 (SnF) was my first bikepacking race back in 2019, and I’ve returned three more times in the years since. It’s always a joy to reconnect with the folks there and be part of their vibrant bikepacking community for a few days.
After Tour de los Padres I wanted one more short bikepacking event to round out my season and test the fitness I’ve been rebuilding since having my kid. Hot Taco happened to fit my packed schedule, and had a lot going for it: a nice “short” 200 mile loop, simple logistics once I arrived in Boise, mild nights that encouraged packing light, and a fun group of adventurous friends old and new.
My husband generously agreed to take on the longest stretch of solo parenting either of us has ever undertaken (Thanks E!!! I’m not sure which one of us ended up having the harder weekend…) and I booked a flight to Boise.
I can’t say my training has been ideal. For the last couple months it’s consisted of one weekly ride, usually about 20 miles and between 3k to 5k feet of climbing, plus weight workouts. I hoped this routine, together with Tour de los Padres and our family tour through South Korea would carry me through.
Related: Bikepack Racing for Beginners and Slower Cyclists
Wait, women only?
That’s right! Doing badass things alongside badass women is a special kind of fun.
To be clear, I love bikepacking amongst guys too. In my experience gender is mostly irrelevant out there, its importance fading in comparison to the immediate experiences we all share. But women are a minority in bikepacking, which is exactly why it’s so much fun to be the majority for once. It’s a different energy.
I’ve spent much of my life working and recreating in male-majority fields, and at times I’ve been conflicted about whether to call out the asymmetry or ignore it. Younger me might not have gone for this event — she would have been glad it exists but not that interested in riding it — but older and wiser me thought it would be a lot of fun.
At the Hot Taco start line. It was a smaller group this year, maybe because so many local women rode it the past two years. Hopefully more new riders next year!
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About Hot Taco
The Hot Taco Bikepacking Race was started by Smoke ‘n’ Fire alum Connie Strand Hendricks in 2024. It’s closely connected with Laura Heiner’s amazing Idaho Women’s Bikepacking group. Both of these women are fabulous and badass. I love hanging out with them in Boise, and I love what they’re doing to grow the women’s bikepacking scene.
This year the Hot Taco route was 214 miles with 22,800 feet of climbing:
The route is designed to be approachable, not in a patronizing “women need an easy route” kind of way, but in a “let’s lure more beginners into this weird and wonderful activity” kind of way. But let me be very clear: the Hot Taco course is not easy. Though it’s only half the distance of Smoke ‘n’ Fire, its climb per mile is about the same (~100 ft/mi).
Having fought my way through SnF four times (most recent ride report here) I would say Hot Taco has a similar feel. Both start and end in Boise and have roughly 100 feet/mile of climbing. Their routes overlap a bit, but not too much – I loved that Hot Taco felt very different in some spots.
Both races end with a big singletrack descent that will take longer than you expect. SnF also has some tricky sections of singletrack in the middle (like Redfish Ridge and Titus hike-a-bike), whereas HT’s singletrack is all at the end and mostly rideable.
So yes, Hot Taco is approachable. It’s shorter than the average bikepacking race. It has well-spaced resupply (every ~70 miles) and plenty of water sources and camping spots. Mostly it avoids roads with traffic. In July the nights are mild, so you can pack light and don’t need cold-weather gear. For me the cold nights of SnF are a big struggle so I was especially looking forward to this part.
But physically, Hot Taco should not be underestimated! It has a ton of climbing, and the weather in July is HOT: this year temps topped 100 degrees F in the low elevation sections. I hear Connie might change the timing next year, which also has downsides (colder nights, shorter daylight hours), but that’s bikepacking for you… There’s always something!
My ride
Overall my ride went smoothly. I packed lighter and slept less than I ever have before. I thought I executed well — stayed within my intended stop time for resupply and sleep, kept moving efficiently, and managed my body in the heat. My timing estimates were pretty accurate, except that I was consistently on the slower end of them. I think this was partly due to my limited training, and partly the heat.
In the end I met my goal of finishing before dark on the second night, but only by an hour. I was the last finisher across the line by ten minutes, with all five of us finishing within a few hours of each other! Typically some people finish on day 3, but it was a small group this year and the riders at the very front and back of the pack ended up dropping out. I actually didn’t realize how close we all were until the end, because I rode alone almost the whole time.
Day 1: 121 miles, 12.8k feet climbing
At 5am it was already warm. We kicked things off with a 15 mile climb up paved Bogus Basin Road, a reroute from the original gravel due to a fire closure. I felt pretty good on this climb, and really enjoyed the subsequent gravel descent. The gradual climb up Grimes Creek dragged on and was the first place I felt a bit uncomfortable.
In tiny Placerville I took a short 15 minute break for some chocolate milk, then pushed on another 20 miles to Garden Valley. This section was familiar from Smoke ‘n’ Fire, but in reverse I hardly recognized it!
The heat was really ramping up when I hit Garden Valley around 3pm. I gave myself an hour to sit in the air-conditioned gas station and scarf down a Subway sandwich. Usually I have trouble eating in hot weather, but surprisingly the sandwich went down without trouble. At this point I decided to buy enough food that I could skip going into Horseshoe Bend the next day, in case I passed by before the gas station opened (ha!).
The big climb up Scriver Creek took the rest of my daylight hours, and I dropped into a peaceful valley right at sunset. The climbs out of Smith’s Ferry and up Dry Buck took me several more hours. I was nearly to the top when I passed a couple riders bivvied by the roadside, an encouraging sign because I was pretty sure I was in last place. I pushed on toward the top but spotted a perfect hidden camp spot just before, and at 1am I called it a night.
Day 2: 93 miles, 10k feet climbing
I got almost 2 hours of sleep in my minimal bivvy setup (no sleeping quilt needed) before my 3:30am alarm, and was moving by 4am. Part of my strategy for this “short” race — only one night out hopefully — was to push limits on sleep more than I usually do.
The big descent was a nice treat, if a little chilly (I wore my tights and puffy jacket for most of it). Sunrise found me rolling into a lovely valley and eventually the picturesque community of Sweet. The rollers into Horseshoe Bend dragged on forever and didn’t feel familiar, even though I had ridden them back in 2019 during my cross-country Bike Nonstop US ride.
Since I was carrying enough food, I skipped Horseshoe Bend and continued straight to the Harris Creek climb. This was a slog, chunky and washboarded in places, with a fair number of cars kicking up dust. The heat really settled in as I hit the connection point with Smoke ‘n’ Fire, which I knew would be tough going with its steep punchy climbs. I walked a lot through this section, tending carefully to my energy levels in the oppressive heat, or maybe just being lazy.
I was happy when the route diverged from SnF onto different singletrack, something new to keep my mind busy. I hit the start of the Sweet Connie descent right around 6pm, the tail end of my “I can probably finish before dark” window. The trail was fast and fun, but felt like descending into an oven. My eyes watered in the hot hairdryer wind.
Just like SnF, Hot Taco makes you work until the very end. After two more climbs totaling about 1000 feet of elevation gain after the main descent, I finally found myself rolling into town. I was feeling pretty cooked, like literally. Some much-appreciated trail magic in the last couple hours helped to cool me down, as did the setting sun.
At the finish line an enthusiastic group was gathered to cheer me in (the last finisher by about 10 minutes). Among them were some of the women who had finished just ahead — we’d been so close, but yet so far, the whole time. We swapped stories and took pictures before heading our separate ways to clean up, eat, and SLEEP.
Another Boise bikepacking event in the bag! Every time I say “last time” and somehow I keep coming back. I did make a mental note, somewhere during the final climb, to not sign up for Smoke ‘n’ Fire next year, but I’ve said that before. I’m not sure when I’ll next find myself in Boise, but I have a feeling I’ll be back, as usual.
Reflections on what went well:
Hydration and electrolytes: No cramps this time, unlike Tour de los Padres, despite the horrendous heat. I carried lots of Tailwind, started sipping it early on day 1, and never stopped.
Staying on schedule for stops: Every time I set a goal — 15 minutes in Placerville, an hour in Garden Valley, 3 hours at camp — I stuck to it. Has parenting given me some kind of time management superpower?
Moving steadily, if not fast: Toward the end I even had some energy in my legs again. I wonder if I might have felt pretty good had it been about 15 degrees cooler.
Packing light: This was the lightest setup I’ve ever carried, and I used everything I brought in terms of sleep and clothing.
Buying enough food: I struggle to buy enough gas station junk food to get me through long days on the bike. This time I counted out 200 calories per hour (plus “dinner” before bivy) and had plenty even though I skipped the last resupply.
No mechanical issues: I worked hard to carve out time for bike maintenance this year and it paid off (or I got lucky), no issues at all.
What could have gone better:
Honestly, just stronger and faster riding would have been nice. I’ve had some good results from weight lifting this year and am excited to refocus on that now that the summer’s big bike goals are behind me.
My bike and gear
I rode Stella (flat bar rigid MTB) with carbon fork and Vittoria Mezcal tires, and was really happy with this choice. No suspension needed for all that gravel, and the flat bars gave just enough of that MTB feel to really enjoy the singletrack at the end.
Because the temps were so warm overall (lows in the mid-fifties overnight) I went without a sleeping bag / quilt for the first time ever. My sleep kit consisted of my breathable Borah Gear Ultralight Bivy, Therm-a-Rest NeoAir Uberlite 3/4-length pad, Sea to Summit Aeros pillow, and an SOL bivy for waterproofing and extra warmth just in case (didn’t use it).
I also packed light tights and an ultralight down jacket (Mountain Hardwear Ghost Whisperer) which I slept in and rode in at times during the night. I had one chilly descent along a creek in the pre-dawn, but otherwise was warm and toasty the whole time.
For water I only used about 3 liters of capacity, maybe 3.5 when it was really hot, because the route has plenty of water sources. I managed to fit it all on my bike, which was great (really wanted to avoid the extra heat of a backpack): 1.5 liters in frame bag, 1 liter in stem bag, 1.5 liters (usually not full) on downtube.
Lastly, special shout-out to kLite for their brilliant light design. I’ve been a big fan of my kLite dynamo lighting for years — it really improves my experience of riding at night. The mount snapped in my bike bag during the flight and I was able to zip tie the light onto the mount, zero issues during the ride.
My kLite zip tie fix, which held up beautifully during the race.
Racing “short”
At 214 miles of mostly gravel, Hot Taco is the shortest bikepacking race I’ve ever ridden. My goal was to finish before dark on the second day, so only one night out. The fastest rider hoped to finish under 24 hours, making it arguably not a bikepacking race at all (though she still carried a minimal bivy setup, because you never know).
I’ve never spent fewer than three nights out in past races. What would this shorter format unlock? A few observations:
Sleep is the most obvious limit to push. With just one night out you almost – almost – don’t need to sleep. A stronger rider might push straight through, but I knew my body would need at least an hour or two of horizontal time. I stopped for exactly three hours, from 1am – 4am, and slept for about two of those hours.
Food is also a bit more forgiving. On a longer ride I have to eat as much real food as I can stomach, otherwise I get sick of sugary processed food and run out of gas somewhere around day 3. For this ride I knew I could squeak by with a junkier diet, no damage done as long as I had enough total calories. This allowed me to skip the second resupply in Horseshoe Bend by carrying a disgusting amount of snacks out of Garden Valley.
Mental game: “You can do anything for two days!” is what I told myself, and it did help. By the time I started thinking “Wait, why am I doing this? This is hard!” somewhere toward the end of day 1, I was already halfway there.
Speed? (not for me): My body is wired for loooong-effort endurance and only has two speeds: slow and slower. Pushing the pace for a shorter effort wasn’t really an option, especially not on the limited training I’ve been able to squeeze in lately. But better athletes could definitely experiment with a harder effort in a race of this length.
Physical toll: I still felt pretty loopy at the finish, partly due to the heat, but definitely less wrecked overall compared to my Smoke ‘n’ Fire finishes. Being out there for twice as long does take a bigger toll on the whole system.
Recovery: Two days later I’m still pretty tired, but I’m hoping the shorter effort translates to faster recovery. This is even more important now that I have a kid, because once I get home there won’t be any leisurely sleeping in or lounging around!
No day 3 high: This is the only negative I can think of. I’ve talked with other racers who also experience this magic: once we push through the first day or two, we often feel really good somewhere around day three (if we eat and pace well). I sometimes say it takes me two days to warm up. With Hot Taco I did all the work of the first two days but never enjoyed the payoff of getting fully into the groove.
The vibes, good as always
As I reflect on the ride, it’s the people and the supportive adventurous vibes that stand out. This is honestly what keeps me coming back to bikepacking races. They’re not always, dare I say it, very fun! But the people are the reason I chose an event, and this one in particular, instead of riding solo somewhere random (been there done that plenty of times).
Thanks to Connie for putting on such a well-designed event, thanks to my Boise friends new and old for welcoming me and spending time with me, and thanks to E for putting in an epic parenting effort while I was away. I’m not sure which one of us had the harder weekend! 🙃
Congratulations to all riders! I hope you’re recovering well, and I hope our paths cross again out there somewhere.
More Bikepacking Resources
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Or visit the bikepacking home page

https://exploringwild.com/hot-taco-bikepacking-race-2026/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=hot-taco-bikepacking-race-2026

List of Hub Dynamo USB Chargers That Power Your Electronics While ...

2026-10-15T14:11:39Z

List of Hub Dynamo USB Chargers That Power Your Electronics While You Ride

A dynamo front wheel can now power your smartphone and other electronics using one of several dedicated USB chargers. This article reviews all available charging options and ranks them by power output at 20 kph (12 mph). At present, there are around 30 different USB chargers designed for use with hub dynamos.
Personally, I use the SON Ladelux to charge a range of devices, including iPhones, AirPods, speakers, Kindles, headlamps, camera batteries, and even a Garmin InReach.
This article was originally published in March 2012 but has been updated in August 2026.
If you’re bikepacking off-road or tackling steep mountain trails, you might want to consider using a power bank or solar panel instead of relying solely on a dynamo charger. Dynamo systems aren’t very efficient for charging high-power devices like smartphones unless you’re maintaining an average speed of 12 to 15 kph (7.5 to 9 mph).
That said, hub dynamos are still capable of charging low-power devices such as GPS trackers, navigation units, or small battery packs – even at speeds as low as 5 kph (3 mph). This makes them a reliable option for off-road ultra-endurance racing.
If your route involves a mix of riding speeds, especially stretches where you’re often below 12 km/h, it’s a good idea to include a buffer battery in your setup. This helps keep your devices powered during slow climbs or stops, like waiting at traffic lights. Thankfully, many modern hub dynamo USB chargers now come with integrated buffer batteries.
The above is a very brief introduction – if you want to learn it all, it could be worth digging into my full series:
Dynamo Hubs
Dynamo Lights
Dynamo USB Chargers
Dynamo Wiring
Buffer Batteries
Rim Dynamos
Comparing Hub Dynamo USB Chargers
To make comparison easier, I’ve detailed the key specifications of each hub dynamo USB charger in this guide and grouped them into three distinct design categories:
Dynamo Light – These are dynamo-powered front lights that also function as USB chargers.
Steerer Integrated – These chargers are built to fit cleanly inside your fork’s steerer tube for a sleek setup.
In-line – Typically compact boxes or tubes, these chargers need to be mounted externally or carried in a bag.
The main specifications used for comparison are:
Speed at 2.5W – The speed required to generate 2.5 watts, the baseline requirement for charging a smartphone.
Power at 20 kph – The maximum USB plug output power when riding at 20 kph.
Power Output Graph – A graph showing the charger’s power output curve, if available.
Buffer Battery – If the charging system includes a built-in buffer battery, its capacity is noted here.
Price – The retail price of the hub dynamo USB charger.
Within each design category, chargers are also ranked by their power output at a steady cycling speed of 20 km/h.
Dynamo Lights With USB Charging
Purple Dog Companion, Stalker & Terra
The Purple Dog Companion is a combined light and USB charger, designed and built by Nicola Banishki. A handlebar-mounted remote enables you to toggle between charging the internal battery and powering external devices, such as a phone, with adjustable power levels for each mode.
Optimised for road use, the Companion features a soft-coloured LED, a cut-off beam pattern for oncoming traffic, and the ability to dim the light down to around 20% brightness, regardless of your speed. When extra brightness is needed, it can draw from its internal battery to maintain full output.
The Purple Dog Stalker is a brighter light than the Companion, equipped with a high beam and automatic power management that intelligently switches between charging its internal battery and powering a USB device. It uses the same USB circuitry as the Companion.
Instead of a single LED, the Stalker features an LED matrix that emits a brighter white light and supports both road and high-beam modes. In high-beam mode, it delivers significantly more light above the horizon, though road-level illumination is slightly reduced compared to the Companion. A remote control lets you dim the light at any speed to around 20% brightness, while the internal battery ensures maximum brightness is maintained even when you slow down or stop.
The Purple Dog Terra is the latest model for low-speed bikepacking, combining the Stalker’s high-beam functionality with a more versatile USB-C power system. It can maintain full light output at low speeds and when stopped, with continuously adjustable brightness from 100 to 700 lumens. It also eliminates flicker across the entire speed range.
The Terra can supply up to 5W to an external device while also accepting up to 7W through USB-C to charge its internal battery. The USB-C input can even be used with a power bank to run the Terra during hike-a-bike sections. Its internal battery is user-replaceable without tools or soldering, and Purple Dog claims a full recharge takes around 1.5 hours when riding at approximately 15 kph.
Speed at 2.5W: 15 kph
Power at 20kph: 5 watts (manufacturer claim)
Power Output Graph: No
Battery: 1600 mAh
Price: €395-440
SON Ladelux
The SON Ladelux is what I’m currently using for my bike journey from Norway to South Africa. Not only is the Ladelux one of the brightest dynamo front lights on the market, but it also delivers great USB charging speeds. Its integrated USB charger is fully waterproof and enables easy charging of external devices via a magnetic port, with a status indicator conveniently located on the handlebar switch.
As for lighting performance, it boasts a powerful 150-lux low beam and an even brighter 200-lux high beam, providing outstanding visibility in all conditions. The built-in 1200 mAh buffer battery ensures the high beam remains available regardless of your riding speed, as well as providing power to your devices when you slow or stop.
Yes, the Ladelux is expensive. But it’s built with the best materials, is designed to last, and can be repaired by SON if something goes wrong. It also offers some of the best lighting and charging, all in one.
Speed at 2.5W: 12 kph
Power at 20kph: 4.7 watts
Power Output Graph: HERE
Battery: 1200 mAh
Price: €479
Igaro C1
The Igaro C1 is another ultra-bright dynamo light that delivers fast device charging. Above 23 km/h (14 mph), it outperforms all other dynamo lights in terms of USB power output.
What makes the C1 unique is its configurability. Through an app, you can control how the generated power is allocated between storage, lighting, and USB output. These preferences are then automatically adjusted based on your speed, battery charge, and surrounding light conditions.
Speed at 2.5W: 13 kph
Power at 20kph: 4.5 watts
Power Output Graph: HERE
Battery: Supercapacitor
Price: £299
Sinewave Beacon 2
The Sinewave Beacon 2 is a powerful dynamo light with a round beam pattern and an integrated USB charger. It uses the same internal electronics as the Sinewave Revolution and Reactor, providing reliable smartphone charging from around 17 kph.
A key highlight is its versatile power options – you can run it via a dynamo hub, an external USB battery pack, or both simultaneously. When connected to a battery pack, it also supports a blinking mode for added visibility.
Speed at 2.5W: 17 kph
Power at 20kph: 2.9 watts
Power Output Graph: HERE
Battery: No
Price: US $350
Integrated USB Chargers
Tout Terrain Plug Plus 7
The Tout Terrain Plug Plus 7 has very sleek integration and strong power output at speeds below 18 kph. It includes a 2200 mAh buffer battery hidden within the steerer tube, which kicks in when your speed drops below 12 kph.
The unit allows you to power lights and charge a device simultaneously, although with both running together, it’s better at maintaining a phone’s charge than fully recharging it. The USB-C port is neatly concealed beneath a rotating, ratcheting top cap.
One drawback is its limited waterproofing – water can collect inside during heavy rain. Because of this, I would recommend avoiding using it in downpours and always covering it with the included waterproof cap.
If you’re looking for a short USB-C-to-iPhone cable, there’s a 15 cm option available on Amazon, and for USB-C to USB-C, there are 15cm options and 10 cm options.
Speed at 2.5W: 12 kph
Power at 20kph: 4.6 watts
Power Output Graph: HERE
Buffer Battery: 2200 mAh
Price: €299
Forumslader Aheadlader V6
The Forumslader Aheadlader V6 ranks among the most powerful dynamo USB chargers at higher speeds, featuring built-in buffer batteries that ensure a stable charge even when stopped. The bigger battery requires more length inside the steerer tube (290 mm) than the smaller battery (190 mm).
A key advantage of Forumslader products is their continual updates, incorporating the latest technology and circuitry, made possible by their small-scale production. For extra protection of the USB port, an aftermarket dust- and water-resistant cap is available HERE.
Speed at 2.5W: 14 kph
Power at 20kph: 4.6 watts
Power Output Graph: HERE
Buffer Battery: 2100 or 7350 mAh
Price: €275
Cycle2Charge V3
The Cycle2Charge V3 dynamo USB charger provides great value for its price. It generates the minimum power required to charge a smartphone at 15 kph (2.5W), with the majority of its output occurring between 20 and 25 kph. Like the Plug Plus 7, it includes a rotating dome that protects the USB port when not in use.
Speed at 2.5W: 15 kph
Power at 20kph: 4.3 watts
Power Output Graph: HERE
Buffer Battery: No
Price: €83
Cinq Plug Pure 7
The Cinq Plug Pure 7 is a more affordable option compared to the Plug6 Plus, as it doesn’t include an integrated buffer battery. Since its maximum output is only around 3.5 watts, it’s better suited for low-power devices like a Garmin GPS or Spot Tracker, rather than charging a smartphone.
Speed at 2.5W: 14 kph
Power at 20kph: 3.5-watts (approx)
Power Output Graph: Plug Pure 5 HERE
Buffer Battery: No
Price: €99
Sinewave Reactor
The Sinewave Reactor is known for its solid reliability and decent performance. Its electronics are cleanly integrated into the fork steerer, giving it a sleek look and making it more resistant to theft. Made in the USA, it has earned high praise from numerous users. It’s also available in eight different anodised colours!
Speed at 2.5W: 17.5 kph
Power at 20kph: 3 watts
Power Output Graph: HERE
Buffer Battery: No
Price: US $220
Gunzel Charge Elite
The Gunzel Charge Elite is an unusual hub dynamo USB charger. Its performance from dynamo input is relatively weak, but it stands out for its ability to be externally charged at 30W and to deliver power just as quickly to a compatible device. It’s better to think of this as a fast battery bank that’s conveniently located inside the steerer tube of your bike.
Speed at 2.5W: 40 kph
Power at 20kph: 1.7 watts
Power Output Graph: HERE
Buffer Battery: 7000 mAh
Price: €170
In-line USB Charging
Igaro S1 Pro
The Igaro S1 Pro is a notably high-performing dynamo hub charger, especially at low speeds. It has dual USB-C ports, status indicators, and supercapacitors that add power to your device when you’re cycling at slower speeds. The S1 Pro is IP69 waterproof and mounts directly to your handlebar near the stem.
Speed at 2.5W: 14 kph (manufacturer claim)
Power at 20kph: 6.8 watts (manufacturer claim)
Power Output Graph: HERE (manufacturer claim)
Buffer Battery: Internal supercapacitors with four minutes of stationary power
Price: £220
Fahrradlader V4.0
The Fahrradlader V4.0 is a small open-hardware project by an electrical engineering student in Germany. The latest Fahrradlader delivers big power at 20 kph for very little money, plus it has four supercapacitors that keep the power flowing temporarily when you ride at low speeds. This model is not waterproof and appears to be made only in small numbers (you might need to get your name on a list).
Speed at 2.5W: 13 kph (manufacturer claim)
Power at 20kph: 5.5 watts (manufacturer claim)
Power Output Graph: HERE (manufacturer claim)
Buffer Battery: Four supercapacitors with stationary power
Price: €50
Lumi-Con Bike Harvester PM
The Lumi-Con PM offers amazing specs for the price. It integrates up to 3500 mAh worth of batteries that can kick in when you drop to low speeds, or store any excess power for when you’ve finished your ride.
Speed at 2.5W: 15 kph (manufacturer claim)
Power at 20kph: 5.5 watts (manufacturer claim)
Power Output Graph: HERE (manufacturer claim)
Buffer Battery: 3500mAh
Price: €161
Busch and Müller K-Werk
The B&M K-Werk is a dynamo-powered USB charger from the renowned dynamo lighting specialists at Busch & Müller. It’s one of the most powerful options available, reaching maximum output at around 20 kph. A strap mount allows it to be attached to your top tube, and its large internal battery keeps your devices charged even when you slow down or stop. At a steady 15 kph, it takes roughly 10 hours of riding to fully charge the battery.
Speed at 2.5W: 14 kph
Power at 20kph: 4.6 watts
Power Output Graph: HERE
Buffer Battery: 4900 mAh
Price: €179
Forumslader Pro V6
The Forumslader Pro V6 comes in a more budget-friendly inline version than the Ahead V6 (mentioned earlier), designed to fit neatly inside a handlebar bag. It’s one of the most powerful dynamo USB chargers at higher speeds, with built-in buffer batteries that maintain a stable output even when stationary.
A great feature of Forumslader products is their ongoing evolution – thanks to small-scale production, they’re frequently updated with the latest technology and circuitry.
Speed at 2.5W: 14 kph
Power at 20kph: 4.6 watts
Power Output Graph: HERE
Buffer Battery: 7500 mAh
Price: €175
Igaro D3
The Igaro D3 charger features a USB-C port, status indicators, and a metal casing. It’s compact, IP69 waterproof, and hand-assembled in the UK. The charger comes with a five-year warranty, and Igaro will ship warranty replacements worldwide for free.
Speed at 2.5W: 14 kph (D2 model)
Power at 20kph: 4.1 watts (D2 model)
Power Output Graph: HERE
Buffer Battery: No
Price: £149
Lumi-Con Bike Harvester P5
The Lumi-Con P5 offers excellent specs for the price. It integrates up to 7000mAh worth of batteries that can store any excess power for when you’ve finished your ride.
Speed at 2.5W: 14 kph
Power at 20kph: 4 watts
Power Output Graph: HERE
Buffer Battery: 2x 3500mAh
Price: €159
Velotor Sport E2 Base
The Velotor is a compact dynamo charger that performs reasonably well at lower speeds, but really comes into its own above 30 kph. At higher speeds, like descending a mountain at 55 kph, it can deliver up to 10W of power, making it one of the highest-output USB chargers available.
Speed at 2.5W: 16 kph
Power at 20kph: 3.6 watts
Power Output Graph: HERE
Buffer Battery: No
Price: €197
Sinewave Revolution
Weighing just 38 grams and fully waterproof, this compact charger connects directly to phones or power banks. It’s a popular choice for its reliability and reasonable price. Expect around 2.5W at 17 kph, 3W at 20 kph, and up to 4.5W at 30 kph. Like all Sinewave products, it’s proudly made in the USA.
Speed at 2.5W: 17 kph
Power at 20kph: 3 watts
Power Output Graph: HERE
Buffer Battery: No
Price: US $120
kLite Micro
kLite, the small Australian company known for rugged lighting and dynamo systems built for remote backcountry adventures, now offers the kLite Micro, which is a super-compact, waterproof USB charger. While its power output is modest, it’s ideal for smaller devices like GPS units or trackers.
Speed at 2.5W: 18 kph (manufacturer claim)
Power at 20kph: 3 watts (manufacturer claim)
Power Output Graph: HERE (manufacturer claim)
Buffer Battery: No
Price: US $100
Busch and Müller E-Werk
Though very dated, the E-Werk is notable for letting you adjust both voltage (2.8 to 13.3V) and current (0.1 to 1.5A) to suit the charging needs of various devices. While this flexibility sounds promising in theory, it can make the charger more complex than necessary. This feature is only beneficial if you frequently ride at very high speeds (over 40 kph). In terms of performance, the E-Werk delivers smartphone-level charging at around 17.5 kph and exceeds 7 watts by the time you reach 45 kph.
Speed at 2.5W: 17.5 kph
Power at 20kph: 2.8 watts
Power Output Graph: HERE
Buffer Battery: Available separately for €105
Price: €199
Busch and Müller USB-Wer

https://www.cyclingabout.com/list-of-hub-dynamo-power-supplies-for-usb-devices/

Review: MLD Border Handlebar Harness (stable and ultralight) ...

2026-10-15T12:54:25Z

Review: MLD Border Handlebar Harness (stable and ultralight)

It’s been awhile since I published a gear review, mostly because I’ve been happy using the gear I already own and I’ve already reviewed most of it. But for this summer season I treated myself to one new piece of gear to fill a gap that’s been bugging me: a lightweight, rigid-arm handlebar harness.
Up until this summer I’ve mainly been using a Revelate Harness. I have about 6000 miles on mine, and I’m a huge fan for bigger loads on a rigid fork. But with a suspension fork it rubs my tire unless I use a very small bag, and the harness isn’t sized well for small bags, so the combination is awkward. I also have an older Salsa EXP Anything Cradle, which I don’t use much because it’s heavy and clunky.
With all the recent innovation in rigid-arm cradles and harnesses, I decided to re-evaluate my handlebar setup. I wanted something rigid (so I can tilt it up off my front wheel when using a suspension fork), light, affordable, and built to handle a wide range of bag sizes including a fairly small dry bag for my lightest setup.
My choice: the Border Handlebar Harness from Mountain Laurel Designs. I was already using their smallest size Ultra X double-sided dry bag (review) in my existing harness, so it was a natural next step and much better fit for that dry bag. And at only $95 the price absolutely cannot be beat.
Note: Many pictures in this review show the Border being used with my Revelate Designs Egress pocket, which is not an official or recommended combination, but it’s what I have and it works for me.
My setup with the Border Harness and Ultra X dry bag at Tour de los Padres.
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How I’ve Used It
I’ve used the Border Harness on three bike trips this spring and summer, spanning a wide range of terrain and bag capacity:
Tour de los Padres Bikepacking Race: 4 days on a burly route with lots of rough backcountry singletrack, carrying a small-diameter bag on flat bars with suspension fork.
Family bike trip across South Korea: 400 miles of pavement, carrying a larger-diameter bag on drop bars with rigid fork.
Hot Taco Bikepacking Race: 2 days of ultralight bikepacking on gravel and easy singletrack, carrying a small-diameter bag on flat bars with rigid fork.
In all three cases I also used my Revelate Egress Pouch with the Border Harness. It’s not a perfect fit and probably not what MLD would recommend, but they don’t provide a compatible pouch and I really like having that easy-access space for snacks and small items.
Representative pictures from each trip with my Border Harness (click to expand):
Tour de los Padres Bikepacking Race
South Korea Cross-Country Bike Route
Hot Taco Bikepacking Race
Border Harness Review
Summary
My overall rating: 4.5 / 5 stars
The Border Harness is an unbeatable combination of lightness, stability, and affordability. The corresponding downside is its lack of bells and whistles like a compatible front pouch or accessory mounts, but this is to be expected.
What I love:
Super affordable ($95)
Very lightweight (8 oz, about half of my Revelate Harness at 15 oz)
Simple design, easy mounting
Mounts take up minimal handlebar space
No slippage or wear so far (~650 miles)
Shock cord on top for layers, extra food, etc.
Adapts to a wide range of bag sizes, from my smallest to largest
What I don’t love:
Wish it had a compatible front pouch, like the Revelate Egress.
Not the easiest to combine with my Revelate Egress, though I made it work by wrapping the Egress straps around the carbon bar twice to prevent downward rotation of the pouch.
No accessory mount: this is a relatively new and rare concept still, but it would be useful when I ride with a GPS device and bar-mounted lighting.
Strap tails are very long (minor detail)
Mounting Process
The setup and mounting process are quite easy. I’ve done it several times in hotels and airports with no issues.
When the Border first arrives, you attach the carbon fiber bar to the harness using velcro straps, and attach the arms to the bar. Shims are included for smaller handlebar sizes, but I haven’t needed to use them.
The actual mounting process consists of two handlebar clamps with hex bolts. Their spacing is adjustable depending on your bars and cockpit setup. I like that the arms are much narrower than the straps and foam spacers on my Revelate Harness, leaving more cockpit space for my navigation device and lights. Lastly there’s a small lower strap to anchor the bottom side to your frame to prevent bouncing.
One note for the Border and any rigid-arm handlebar setup: It’s best to angle it downward as much as possible while still avoiding tire rub. I do like the ability to angle it up off my tire when using a suspension fork, but all else being equal, a lower position is better for steering feel and minimizing rotational force at the clamps.
Stability
The Border system combines rigid arms with a fabric harness, which is a bit unusual. Most systems use soft attachments + soft harness, or rigid arms + rigid cradle for ultimate stability.
The fabric harness means the border isn’t quite as rock-solid as its rigid cradle counterparts, but it’s been good enough for me even on rough singletrack. And this combination is what keeps the Border so incredibly light at only 8 ounces. To me, that’s worth the tradeoff.
Stable enough for this mess! Not that I was riding most of this trail, to be honest.
Performance So Far
I’ve been really happy with the Border Harness so far, no complaints about durability or performance. I first installed it the day before leaving for the rugged Tour de los Padres! This was definitely a risk – I always recommend testing gear first – but it worked flawlessly and I have no regrets.
I’ve had zero slippage while riding, and no trouble getting the fit dialed on two different bikes (Chumba Stella and Salsa Fargo). After 650 miles everything still looks as new and shiny as when it arrived. I expect it will last a long time and be my go-to for most trips in the future.
What Else to Look At
If you look at the whole list of rigid-arm handlebar bag holders and complete systems over at Baggregator (my other project), you’ll see quite a few recently launched options. I was tempted by a few others:
OMM’s Manzanita Cradle: OMM generally makes great gear and I love the idea of accessory mounts to free up bar space.
Revelate Designs’ new Hammerhead harness: another lightweight option with rigid arms and fabric harness plus an accessory mount.
Rogue Panda’s Blue Ridge, also lightweight and looks very stable.
These all look like great products with solid engineering behind them. I chose the simpler Border Harness instead because 1) the price is incredibly good, and 2) it’s the lightest of the light. For me, that was the gap I needed filled.
Though I haven’t tried these other options personally, I haven’t noticed any tradeoffs in quality with the Border. If budget is a factor or weight is a top concern, I recommend the Border wholeheartedly. If easy front pouch compatibility or accessory mounts are worth $100+ to you, those other options above are worth a look.
Other Bikepacking Resources
If you liked this review, you may also like these articles:
OMM Divide Rack (Long-Term Review)
Planning Guide for the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route
How much bike repair knowledge do you really need for bikepacking?
Or visit the bikepacking home page for lots more!
About the Author
Hi there, I’m Alissa, founder of Exploring Wild. I’ve traveled over 20,000 miles by bike and still can’t stop planning my next ride (and helping you plan yours). Pavement and panniers or singletrack and seat bag, I love it all. On my bike I feel free. Learn more about me here.
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The 34 Lightest Gravel Bikes In The World For 2026 If you’re ...

2026-10-15T12:05:38Z

The 34 Lightest Gravel Bikes In The World For 2026

If you’re looking for the lightest gravel bikes, you’ve come to the right place. I’ve analysed hundreds of gravel bikes from all over the internet and ranked the lightest models by their weight.
Importantly, these are not custom one-off bicycles that use obscure components. They are all stock gravel bike models you might find in a bicycle shop near you!
How Did These Become The Lightest Gravel Bikes?
Bike manufacturers use different methods to hit their weight targets.
Some start with an ultralight carbon frameset, while others fit obnoxiously light carbon wheels and components. That said, it’s likely a combination of weight savings that will get your bike model on the lightest gravel bikes list.
The S-Works Crux is unbelievably light compared to other gravel framesets.
The frameset weight is one way we can understand how a bike manufacturer went about hitting their weight targets. That’s the combined frame and fork weight, usually without small parts like bearings and bolts. When you start with a light frameset, you get a big head start on the components.
The lightest gravel frameset amongst bikes on this list is 1,189 grams, and the heaviest is 1,685 grams. When we average out all frameset weights on this list, we arrive at 1,394 grams, which typically breaks down to under 1000 grams for the frame and a bit over 400 grams for the fork.
Zipp 303 Firecrest wheels are a popular way to achieve good aerodynamics in a lightweight package.
The wheelset weight is another important data point, as they are often a bike’s heaviest component. That means they usually have the most weight to lose.
All wheelsets on this list are made from carbon fibre, and the rim depths vary. In some cases, bike manufacturers have traded off some weight for better aerodynamics to create the fastest gravel bikes possible.
Even amongst lightweight gravel bikes on this list, there are over 400 grams of variation between wheelsets. The lightest wheels are just 1230 grams, and the heaviest are 1643 grams. When we tally everything up, we find that the average wheelset tips the scales at 1445 grams.
Do The Lightest Gravel Bikes Make You Faster?
Just because it’s light doesn’t mean it’s fast! Image: Ridley Bikes
If you’ve been reading CYCLINGABOUT for a while, you’ll know that bike weight is not that important in terms of speed. This is because a one- or two-kilogram weight saving is a tiny reduction from your overall total body+bike+gear+water weight.
Spending big money to save one kilogram will not make you as fast as you think. When I run a computer simulation, shaving one kilogram off a bike only saves around one minute on a hilly 4+ hour ride, although it can be as much as two minutes if you’re a lighter and less powerful rider.
The biggest advantage of a lightweight gravel bike is the way it feels underneath you. The bikes listed below offer the sensation of quick acceleration and will feel highly responsive to your pedal inputs. They will undoubtedly encourage you to put the hammer down at any moment.
How I Standardised the Bike Weights
The Schwalbe G-One RS Pro tyres are lighter than average, so I’ve made a weight correction on bikes that use them.
I’ve made a weight correction to the following bikes to level out the playing field.
I’ve deducted weight from bikes with heavier tyres and added weight to bikes using lighter tyres. This is to ensure that bikes that come with wider and/or more durable tyres do not incur a significant weight penalty.
The average tyre weight across all bikes on this list is 480 grams, which is a reasonable weight for a 45mm gravel race tyre. Any tyre above this weight I’ve subtracted from the bike’s weight, and any tyre below this weight has been added to the bike.
Example: If a bike comes with 580-gram tyres, I’ve made a weight reduction of 200 grams (as there are two tyres) to standardise the bike weights. And if the bike comes with 380-gram tyres, I’ve simply added 200 grams to the bike’s weight. You’ll find the stock tyre weights listed below.
Right, it’s time to inspect the lightest gravel bikes in the world!
Cervelo Aspero-5 (7.93kg or 17.5lbs)
The 2026 Cervelo Aspero-5 with SRAM RED AXS.
Frameset weight: 990+393 grams – 11 grams lighter than average
Wheelset weight: 1454 grams – 9 grams heavier than average
Tyre weight: 440 grams
Tyre clearance: 45 mm
Price: US $12,500
Scott Addict Gravel RC (7.92kg or 17.5lbs)
The Scott Addict Gravel RC
Frameset weight: 930+395 grams – 69 grams lighter than average
Wheelset weight: 1490 grams – 45 grams heavier than average
Tyre weight: 485 grams
Tyre clearance: 45 mm
Price: US $9,999
The heaviest-lightest gravel bike is the Scott Addict Gravel RC!
This top-of-the-line model features one of the lighter framesets and builds up into a very capable gravel race bike. Tour Magazin has tested the lateral frame stiffness to be higher than many bikes here, which will make it feel extra responsive underneath you.
In addition, the fork legs will flex back and forth over bumps more than typical, providing additional ride comfort for your hands and upper body.
There has been no expense has been spared on the components here. A SRAM Red AXS drivetrain and Syncros carbon components help to keep the bike under the 8kg (18lbs) mark.
The Addict RC is only one of two gravel bikes on this list with a 2X drivetrain. This allows for closer steps between each gear, making the bike extra suitable for road bike use if you were to fit some narrow slick tyres.
Factor Ostro Gravel (7.90kg or 17.4lbs)
The Factor Ostro Gravel features one of the most aerodynamic framesets
Frameset weight: 899+425 grams – 70 grams lighter than average
Wheelset weight: 1632 grams – 187 grams heavier than average
Tyre weight: 480 grams
Tyre clearance: 45 mm
Price: €9,799
The Factor Ostro Gravel has more aerodynamic features than your typical gravel bike.
The deeper and more truncated head tube profile, tight integration between the fork crown and frame, dropped seat stays, aero seatpost, and rear wheel cutout will undoubtedly make for a quick gravel race bike in the wind.
But despite all these aero features, the Ostro Gravel is the 6th lightest frameset of this list.
That said, the Factor also has the lowest frame stiffness of any bike here (according to Tour Magazin lab testing). It’s over 20% less stiff at the head tube and bottom bracket than competing products. This will not be a big deal for lighter and less powerful riders, but for heavier riders who can put more power through the frame, it might be a dealbreaker.
The Ostro Gravel has a solid race build. It’s equipped with a SRAM Force AXS wireless drivetrain, SRAM brakes and some fast-rolling Good Year tyres. While the wheels on this bike are surprisingly heavy for their depth, hopefully, this translates to high overall strength and durability.
Ribble Ultra-Grit (7.87kg or 17.4lbs)
The 2026 Ribble Ultra Grit.
Frameset weight: 900+420 grams – 74 grams lighter than average
Wheelset weight: 1454 grams – 9 grams heavier than average
Tyre weight: 545 grams
Tyre clearance: 50 mm
Price: £7,499
Vitus Venon EVO-GR (7.88kg or 17.4lbs)
The Vitus Venon EVO-GR offers an excellent overall package for its price.
Frameset weight: 1000+450 grams – 56 grams heavier than average
Wheelset weight: 1545 grams – 100 grams heavier than average
Tyre weight: 490 grams
Tyre clearance: 45 mm
Price: £4,299
The Vitus Venon EVO-GR is a lightweight gravel bike that offers a raft of aero features. This will make it one of the fastest bikes on a gravel race course.
While it doesn’t have the lightest frameset or wheelset, it’s a great overall package that undercuts plenty of rivals on price when you consider the high-grade specification (SRAM Force AXS plus plenty of carbon components!).
One thing to note is that it has a lower torsional frame stiffness than most gravel bikes here; in fact, it has similar stiffness values to the Factor Ostro Gravel. Again, this will be fine for lighter and less powerful riders, but might not be appropriate for heavier and more powerful riders.
Berria NAII BR (7.85kg or 17.3lbs)
The 2026 Berria Naii BR has 28mm of rear suspension travel.
Frameset weight: 950+420 grams – 24 grams lighter than average
Wheelset weight: 1454 grams – 9 grams heavier than average
Tyre weight: 480 grams
Tyre clearance: 50 mm
Price: €9,249
Allied Echo Red AXS (7.85kg or 17.3lbs)
The 2025 Allied Echo can be built as a lightweight gravel or road bike.
Frameset weight: 950+380 grams – 64 grams lighter than average
Wheelset weight: 1355 grams – 90 grams lighter than average
Tyre weight: 453 grams
Tyre clearance: 40 mm
Price: US $11,355
The Allied Echo is billed as a two-in-one road and gravel bike.
The magic of it is the integrated flip chips at the fork and rear dropouts, which not only change the wheelbase length but also the bottom bracket drop – important when you’re changing the overall wheel+tyre diameter.
When the flip chips are in the “road mode” position, the wheelbase length and BB drop is reduced, making for a more compact layout that gives the bike a more responsive and agile feel. When the flip chips are in the “gravel mode” position, the wheelbase length is extended, making the bike more stable and forgiving on gravel.
Some of the pros of the bike include its quick and easy geometry conversion, excellent stiffness, and notable ride quality. Some of the cons of the bike include its compromised gravel mode geometry, narrow maximum tyre width, quirky stem design, and slack seat tube angle in the smaller frame sizes. It also uses gear ratios better suited to the road rather than the gravel.
Overall, the Allied Echo is a very capable bike that is suitable for a wide range of riders. It is a great option for those who are looking for a single bike that will ride well on both gravel and tarmac surfaces.
3T Racemax 2 (7.82kg or 17.2lbs)
The 2026 3T Racemax 2.
Frameset weight: 990+380 grams – 24 grams lighter than average
Wheelset weight: 1454 grams – 9 grams heavier than average
Tyre weight: 522 grams
Tyre clearance: 50 mm
Price: €12,699
Mondraker Arid Carbon RR SL (7.81kg or 17.2lbs)
The Mondraker Arid Carbon RR SL is fitted with some of the deepest and widest carbon wheels.
Frameset weight: 1250+435 grams – 291 grams heavier than average
Wheelset weight: 1642 grams – 197 grams heavier than average
Tyre weight: 525 grams
Tyre clearance: 50 mm
Price: €9,499
Lauf Seigla Ultimate (7.69kg or 17lbs)
The Lauf Seigla Ultimate has the widest tyre clearance of any gravel bike on this list.
Frameset weight: 1030+435 grams – 71 grams heavier than average
Wheelset weight: 1400 grams – 45 grams lighter than average
Tyre weight: 632 grams
Tyre clearance: 57 mm or 2.25″
Price: US $6,290
The Lauf Seigla is the lightest gravel bike with the ability to fit 2.25″ wide mountain bike tyres, which will allow it to handle the roughest gravel roads. The frame has also been designed in a way that allows it to flex vertically, smoothing out bumpy terrain.
This is the first bike we’ve seen without fully integrated cables, and this makes bike maintenance easier and allows you to change the handlebar and stem dimensions with ease.
The Seigla Ultimate is equipped with some lightweight carbon wheels that will make the bike feel fast and agile, and a tough SRAM Red XPLR wireless groupset. Given the Red XPLR groupset retails for around US $4000, this makes the Seigla one of the best-value lightweight gravel bikes!
I’ve made a correction of over 300 grams to this bike as the Lauf comes standard with some wider-than-average tyres with good puncture protection. Expect it to weigh under 7.7kg with some gravel race tyres.
Merida Mission 10K (7.68kg or 17lbs)
The 2026 Merida Mission 10K has the narrowest tyre clearance of any gravel bike on this list.
Frameset weight: 1100+420 grams – 126 grams heavier than average
Wheelset weight: 1454 grams – 9 grams heavier than average
Tyre weight: 500 grams
Tyre clearance: 40 mm
Price: €8,400
Wilier Rave SLR ID2 (7.68kg or 16.9lbs)
Frameset weight: 990+415 grams – 11 grams heavier than average
Wheelset weight: 1565 grams – 120 grams heavier than average
Tyre weight: 590 grams
Tyre clearance: 52 mm
Price: €9,900
Rose Backroad FF (7.67kg or 16.9lbs)
The Rose Backroad FF has deeper wheels than average amongst these lightweight gravel bikes.
Frameset weight: 1020+420 grams – 46 grams heavier than average
Wheelset weight: 1550 grams – 105 grams heavier than average
Tyre weight: 445 grams
Tyre clearance: 45mm
Price: €6,999
Van Rysel RCR-G (7.65kg or 16.9lbs)
Frameset weight: 885+415 grams – 96 grams lighter than average
Wheelset weight: 1550 grams – 105 grams heavier than average
Tyre weight: 505 grams
Tyre clearance: 50mm
Price: €6,599
Specialized Crux 5 S-Level (7.62kg or 16.8lbs)
The Specialized Crux 5 S-Level is not even the top level in the range; that’s coming up soon.
Frameset weight: 897+400 grams – 97 grams lighter than average
Wheelset weight: 1608 grams – 163 grams heavier than average
Tyre weight: 520 grams
Tyre clearance: 55 mm
Price: US $10,499
Ventum GS1 (7.62kg or 16.8lbs)
Frameset weight: 1020+420 grams – 46 grams heavier than average
Wheelset weight: 1454 grams – 9 grams heavier than average
Tyre weight: 540 grams
Tyre clearance: 50 mm
Price: US $8,599
Orbea Terra Race M11eLTD (7.62kg or 16.8lbs)
The 2026 Orbea Terra Race is among the lightest gravel bikes currently available.
Frameset weight: 910+425 grams – 59 grams lighter than average
Wheelset weight: 1421 grams – 24 grams lighter than average
Tyre weight: 520 grams
Tyre clearance: 45 mm
Price: €9,999
Ridley ASTR RS (7.62kg or 16.8lbs)
The 2025 Ridley ASTR RS is among the lightest gravel bikes currently available.
Frameset weight: 891+420 grams – 85 grams lighter than average
Wheelset weight: 1643 grams – 198 grams heavier than average
Tyre weight: 575 grams
Tyre clearance: 52 mm or 2.1″
Price: €11,699
Ridley makes one thing clear: the ASTR RS is a thoroughbred gravel race bike aiming for the podium. The frameset, integrated bar-stem, and wheels are all aero-optimised to create the fastest gravel bike possible.
In fact, the ASTR RS has the deepest and heaviest wheels of any bike on this list. While the DT Swiss wheels are over 200 grams heavier than average, the time savings at 35km/h (22mph) will undoubtedly make up for the minor weight penalty.
This bike has notably wide tyre clearance for a gravel bike (52 mm or 2.1″), allowing you to fit the appropriate tyres required to handle rougher courses.
The new Forza NIMBUS Pro one-piece handlebar and stem measure 360 mm wide at the hoods (to keep your frontal area smaller) but become significantly wider in the drops thanks to a generous flare. This should give you ample control over technical descents.
Trek Checkmate SLR 9 (7.61kg or 16.8lbs)
The Trek Checkmate SLR9 is the lightest and most aero gravel bike available from Trek.
Frameset weight: 1223+415 grams – 242 grams heavier than average
Wheelset weight: 1355 grams – 90 grams lighter than average
Tyre weight: 450 grams
Tyre clearance: 45 mm
Price: US $12,000
The Checkmate SLR 9 is a newer, lighter and faster gravel race bike from Trek.
It’s clearly aero-optimised with its large tube profiles, reasonably deep carbon wheels, and one-piece Aero RSL bar/stem (identical to that found on their road race bike, the Madone). The bars are 30mm narrower at the hoods than the drops, which will put your body in a more aerodynamically efficient ride position.
The Checkmate uses what Trek calls its new ‘Gravel Race’ geometry, offering a lower and shorter-reach position than the outgoing Checkpoint SLR. That said, it’s not as low as many bikes on this list.
A top-tier SRAM Red XLPR gravel groupset and moderately deep Bontrager carbon wheels assist in keeping this bike as light and fast as possible.
The Checkmate also employs Trek’s IsoSpeed technology, a decoupler at the intersection between the top tube and the seat tube that assists the saddle/post in smoothing imperfections on the road or trail.
Canyon Grail CFR XPLR (7.55kg or 16.6lbs)
The Canyon Grail CFR XPLR is one light gravel bike!
Frameset weight: 1030+372 grams – 8 grams heavier than average
Wheelset weight: 1452 grams – 7 grams heavier than aver

https://www.cyclingabout.com/lightest-gravel-bikes-in-the-world/

Collective Reward Roundup: Another 20 Chances to Win Big! Our ...

2026-10-15T11:24:11Z

Collective Reward Roundup: Another 20 Chances to Win Big!

Our fall membership ends on Saturday, when we’ll draw winners for about 20 fresh Collective Reward prize packages worth more than $12,000. See everything we’ll be giving away and sign up to support our work in time to be automatically entered to win here…
The post Collective Reward Roundup: Another 20 Chances to Win Big! appeared first on BIKEPACKING.com.

https://bikepacking.com/news/collective-rewards-245-to-258/

Bike Touring with a Baby: Trailer vs. Handlebar Seat In the ...

2026-10-15T11:02:03Z

Bike Touring with a Baby: Trailer vs. Handlebar Seat

In the lead-up to our 400 mile ride across South Korea with our 13-month-old son, I spent months worrying about the best way to transport him. When baby ain’t happy ain’t nobody happy, isn’t that how the saying goes? The success of the entire trip would hinge on his opinion of his transport method.
We were so busy before the trip that we only managed a couple of ~2 hour test rides with the trailer, and approximately 50 feet in our driveway with the seat. (Side note: I recommend testing gear before a big trip! Do as I say, not as I do!)
In the end we flew across the Pacific with BOTH a trailer and a handlebar-mounted seat, crossing our fingers and praying to the bike touring gods that he’d like at least ONE of them.
Spoiler alert: he liked both, and each had tradeoffs. Here are the pros and cons as we experienced them, and what we would do differently next time.
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What we brought
Trailer: Thule Chariot Cross, the version before generation 2
Seat: Thule Yepp Nexxt 2 Mini
It must be said: these are expensive items! Look for deals on Facebook Marketplace or other secondhand markets, since kids outgrow them well before they wear out.
We bought the Chariot used from a local marketplace, got a great sale price on the Yepp seat, and will sell both in a few years when we’re done with them.
How we used them
My bike, a Salsa Fargo, towed the trailer. This meant I had a slightly heavier load, but the trailer connected directly to my quick-release skewer (or my OMM Divide rack with the special trailer dropout) without needing to buy a new axle, so this was the easiest setup.
My husband’s bike, a Solace Cycles OM-2P, had the handlebar seat attachment mounted.
The trailer ended up being the primary, by far. Our little guy liked it, thank goodness. He napped in there, played with toys, and mostly just chilled. Keep in mind he was 13 months old at the time, not yet walking, so YMMV with an older toddler.
He spent only about an hour each day in the Yepp seat on my husband’s bike, usually when he was getting fussy in the trailer or we had a particularly flat and chill stretch of riding ahead. It was definitely more engaging for him, but also more tiring and maybe a bit overstimulating. It was also less comfortable riding for dad. It was a nice way for them to connect since I was towing the trailer, but only for shorter stretches.
When not in use, we strapped the seat to the back of the trailer. After the initial install of the mounting plate on the steerer tube, the seat was VERY fast to mount and unmount.
Trailer: pros
Safest way to transport our little guy. He’s very well protected in there. The seat, on the other hand, made us nervous on faster descents or anywhere near traffic.
Comfortable for hours – he can lounge and nap, snack or drink water, and play with toys.
Easier to transport than you might think, since ours doubles as a stroller so airlines will gate check it for free.
Adds a lot of cargo space for other gear and odds and ends.
Doesn’t interfere with pedaling or handling (too much).
Trailer: cons
Always there whether the baby is in it or not, so I never got a moment of unloaded riding even when the little guy was riding with dad (in hindsight we should have bought the axle needed for my husband to also tow the trailer).
Made it hard to navigate anywhere off the bike path or main road. Narrow sidewalks, curbs, etc. were a major challenge.
Pretty heavy, definitely noticeable over bumps and on climbs. Reduced me to walking in many places I would have otherwise ridden.
Seat: pros
Fun for the little guy. He was more engaged and seemed to feel more like he was actually riding a bike.
Better for interacting with your kid while riding.
Good to mix things up on the rare occasion when he didn’t want to get back in the trailer.
Once the mount is installed on the steerer, the seat is very easy to add and remove.
Lighter than a trailer.
Seat: cons
A bit uncomfortable for my husband. It changed his posture and pedaling form, made sudden stops difficult, and just generally wasn’t great for long stretches or more challenging riding.
Needed to install a dropper post on his bike before leaving home so he could safely get on and off with the baby seat installed. (He wanted one anyway so this was reasonable, but droppers are expensive if you don’t otherwise need one.)
Felt less safe for our little guy, so we didn’t use it for long downhills or road sections with any traffic.
Not really possible for him to nap or play in it, so only works for a shorter time period.
More sun exposure, especially since we couldn’t get him to wear sunglasses.
What I would do differently / next time
Our trailer + seat system worked well, and if our little guy had not been as happy in the trailer I would have called it perfect. As it was though, he spent almost all his time in the trailer, so the seat was a lot of extra bulk to haul around.
If I could go back in time for this particular trip, I would skip the seat and instead set up our bikes so we can both haul the trailer. Then my husband and I could share that duty more evenly.
The counterpoint is that the seat is probably more useful for short day rides with a young kid at home. If we were focused on short rides at home rather than long-distance touring, the seat might be a better choice than the trailer because it’s smaller, lighter, cheaper, and easier to set up.
Whatever you choose, know that bike travel with a baby or toddler is a wild ride! It’s not for the faint of heart, mind, or body, but it’s worth it.
More Bike Travel Resources
If you liked this post, you might also like these:
Biking Across America: Top Touring Routes Compared
Tips for Successful Bikepacking With Your Significant Other
Bike Camping: Simple Guide to Getting Started
Bike Touring Seoul to Busan: South Korea’s Cross-Country Route
Or see the full bike travel home page for lots more.
About the Author
Hi there, I’m Alissa, founder of Exploring Wild. I’ve traveled over 20,000 miles by bike and still can’t stop planning my next ride (and helping you plan yours). Pavement and panniers or singletrack and seat bag, I love it all. On my bike I feel free. Learn more about me here.
Bikepackers: Join me on Patreon for ad-free writing, individualized trip prep help, and a community of likeminded supporters.
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The post Bike Touring with a Baby: Trailer vs. Handlebar Seat appeared first on Exploring Wild.

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Are Carbon Rims Really Stronger than Aluminium Ones? Rim ...

2026-10-15T10:24:33Z

Are Carbon Rims Really Stronger than Aluminium Ones? Rim Destruction Test

I’ve recently started testing carbon rims on my touring bike. Incredibly, they’re over 40% lighter than my previous aluminium rims, despite still being designed for expedition bike travel.
To find out if they’re strong enough for touring, I’ll be taking my Idworx carbon rims on a 30,000 km journey from the top of Norway all the way down to South Africa. But I didn’t want to wait the full two years for my answer, so I went on a mission to find out if any lab tests could tell me whether carbon rims are stronger than aluminium rims.
I ended up finding a whole lot of strength data published by Hunt Bike Wheels in the UK. Hunt has developed its own laboratory testing to evaluate its wheels and compare its latest designs with competitor wheelsets. So far, they’ve published impact-test data covering 25 carbon rims and 36 aluminium rims, which we’ll be analysing today.
My Idworx touring bike decked out with carbon wheels.
Hunt is unusually transparent about its rim impact testing, publishing the complete results for its competitors as well as its own wheels. And sometimes, the data doesn’t show Hunt’s wheels at the top of the graph, which I find quite refreshing.
But what was most interesting to me in the Hunt data was that carbon rims were very often capable of withstanding significantly more impact energy than their aluminium counterparts.
Let’s take a closer look.
Carbon vs Aluminium Rims
Before we get into the test results, it’s worth understanding a little about the materials themselves.
When it comes to high-energy impacts, aluminium rims have an advantage in the way they tend to fail. Rather than suddenly breaking, aluminium will typically bend and deform, leaving a visible dent in the rim. The benefit is that this damage is usually easy to identify, and the wheel can often remain structurally intact and rideable even after a significant impact.
However, even relatively small dents can compromise an aluminium rim’s ability to maintain a tubeless seal, while enough dents can eventually make the wheel unsafe to ride.
Carbon fibre behaves differently. Once the limits of the composite are exceeded, cracks can develop and spread quickly, rather than the rim simply denting like aluminium. This can result in a much more sudden loss of strength. But manufacturers account for this by building plenty of strength and safety margin into the rim.
Where carbon really starts to have an advantage is in terms of weight. Aluminium alloys generally have poorer fatigue resistance than carbon-fibre composites, so engineers often need to use more material to achieve the required lifespan. This is one reason why aluminium rims tend to be heavier than carbon rims.
The primary downside to carbon-fibre rims is cost. They can cost four to five times as much as comparable aluminium rims, largely because they are more complex and time-consuming to manufacture. The manufacturing process also requires stringent quality control to ensure the carbon layup is consistent and free from imperfections.
Ok, let’s get into the test data.
The Impact Test
The Hunt anvil has destroyed dozens of mountain bike wheels.
Hunt’s impact test involves dropping a 25 kg anvil onto a complete wheel from progressively increasing heights. After each impact, the wheel is inspected for signs of damage. If no damage is found, the impact area is marked, and the wheel is rotated before the next test. The drop height is then increased until the rim reaches its failure point.
For carbon mountain bike wheels, Hunt stops the test at the first sign of damage. Cracks will almost always propagate downward from the rim hook because this is where the peak forces occur, making major damage relatively easy to identify.
For aluminium mountain bike wheels, the test continues until the rim develops a significant dent at the flange and/or two spokes become loose. Loose spokes indicate either spoke pull-through or a significant flat spot in the rim.
Hunt tests the wheels with the anvil positioned 15 degrees from vertical. This concentrates most of the impact force on a single rim bead rather than distributing it across both beads, which Hunt says better replicates the real-world impacts experienced by mountain bike wheels.
Importantly, Hunt tests complete wheels, rather than bare rims. This means spoke tension, spoke angles, and hub geometry are all part of the test. Tyres are also fitted to the wheel and inflated to 28 psi (1.9 bars). Hunt uses an inner tube rather than a tubeless setup because it makes the testing cleaner and quicker.
Impact energy is measured in joules (J) and is calculated from the mass of the anvil, gravitational acceleration and the height from which it is dropped: Energy (J) = mass (kg) × 9.81 m/s² × height (m).
For reference, Hunt estimates that riding head-on into a kerb is around 40 J, so they consider 100 J the minimum acceptable impact energy for a mountain bike rim. A 160 J impact is enormous and unlikely to be encountered by most wheels during normal riding.
I should also put these numbers into perspective. Mountain bikes have suspension, while the frame and fork also flex and deflect under impact. And in the real world, we rarely hit obstacles perfectly square-on; impacts are usually angled, which reduces the peak forces experienced by the wheel.
ASTM Standards For Wheels
Before we jump into the results, we need to understand that the intended use of MTB rims is classified into different categories, based on factors such as speed, terrain and the size of jumps or drops the bike is designed to handle.
ASTM International has developed a classification system for bicycle use, which provides standardised definitions of the types of riding that bicycles and components are designed for. The aim is to give manufacturers, retailers and consumers a consistent way of identifying the intended use of a bicycle or component.
There are two categories relevant to the rims in this test:
For cross-country (XC) and light trail riding, the rating is ASTM Category 3. These rims are designed for riding on rough surfaces, including XC trails, with maximum jump or drop heights of up to 61 cm (24 inches).
For enduro and all-mountain riding, the rating is ASTM Category 4. These rims are designed for very rough and challenging terrain, aggressive singletrack and technical descents. The category allows speeds of up to 40 km/h (25 mph) and jumps or drops of up to 122 cm (48 inches).
Impact Test Results
Aluminium vs Carbon Rim Strength
Rim TypeAverage Rim WeightAverage Impact Energy at FailureExtra Energy RequiredAluminium Rims (ASTM 4)559 grams146 JBaselineCarbon Rims (ASTM 4)530 grams180 J23% More EnergyAluminium Rims (ASTM 3)460 grams116 JBaselineCarbon Rims (ASTM 3)349 grams116 JSame Energy
The data shows that, on average, ASTM 4 carbon wheels withstood significantly more impact energy than their aluminium counterparts in an impact test.
The carbon rims failed at around 23% higher energy, despite having an average rim weight approximately 5% lower. This demonstrates that carbon wheels designed for all-mountain and enduro riding are clearly capable of handling some seriously heavy impacts.
Interestingly, the ASTM 3 carbon wheels (cross-country use) required roughly the same amount of impact energy to cause damage as the aluminium wheels. This suggests that, at least in this sample, manufacturers may be prioritising weight savings over outright impact strength. It seems wheel brands are essentially matching the strength of their aluminium wheels while removing more than 100 grams per rim.
The Strongest Carbon vs Aluminium Rims
Rim ModelImpact Energy at FailureExtra Energy RequiredRoval Traverse Aluminium (ASTM 4)180 JBaselineHunt Proven H Core Carbon (ASTM 4)220 J22% More Energy
When we pick out the two strongest wheels from the dataset of 61, the difference is also interesting.
The carbon rim outperforms the aluminium rim, continuing the test all the way to 220 J before finally failing. That represents more than 22% higher impact energy than the strongest aluminium rim.
Matching the Rim Weights
Rim ModelRim WeightAverage Impact Energy at FailureExtra Energy RequiredReserve 30 HD Alloy (ASTM 4)580 grams160 JBaselineHunt Proven H Core Carbon (ASTM 4)574 grams220 J38% More EnergyIndustry Nine EN300 (ASTM 4)520 grams140 JBaselineReserve 30 HD Carbon (ASTM 4)517 grams200 J43% More EnergyHunt Race XC Wide Aluminium (ASTM 3)475 grams130 JBaselineEnve M6 Carbon (ASTM 4)449 grams180 J39% More Energy
When we match carbon and aluminium rims by weight, the difference in impact resistance becomes even more apparent.
Within similar rim-weight ranges, the carbon rims were able to withstand around 40% more impact energy in the test. That’s a pretty substantial difference.
This highlights an important point: you shouldn’t expect an aluminium rim to be as strong as a carbon rim at the same weight. If impact strength is the priority, you’ll need to use a significantly heavier aluminium rim to get results in the same ballpark.
Are Carbon Rims Stronger Than Aluminium?
This poor Roval carbon rim saw a bigger impact than it was designed to withstand.
When we look at the data, aluminium rims typically fail between 120 and 160 J. Only one aluminium rim in the dataset has reached 180 J. In comparison, carbon rims have a considerably higher average failure energy, with ASTM 4 carbon rims averaging around 180 J.
And if we compare the very strongest aluminium rim at 180 J with the strongest carbon rim at 220 J, the carbon rim withstands 22% more impact energy before failure.
But there’s a little more to the story than a simple maximum-energy impact test.
Aluminium rims will show their damage quite clearly.
Aluminium rims typically start showing damage at around 80 to 120 J. This usually appears as dents in the rim flange, and these dents are permanent, so each impact can accumulate damage. Five or six impacts at 120 J in different locations around the rim can eventually leave the wheel unrideable.
A carbon rim, by comparison, will typically tolerate dozens of 120 J impacts without visible damage. In addition, your tubeless tyres will continue to seal under really big impacts.
That doesn’t mean a carbon rim is completely unaffected by big impacts. There could be damage within the carbon composite that isn’t visible from the outside and could potentially weaken the rim over time. Determining whether this has occurred would require cutting the rim apart and inspecting the structure.
This is one reason carbon rim manufacturers aim to push their wheels to the highest possible failure energy on the test rig. The more impact energy a rim can withstand before sustaining structural damage, the greater the confidence that it has a useful safety margin for repeated impacts in the real world.
Rolling Drum Fatigue Test
Another test that’s conducted to understand carbon and aluminium rim strength is to put the wheel through a rolling road fatigue test.
As the wheel rotates on the steel drum, it is subjected to continuous, repeated impacts that simulate the loads experienced during real-world riding. The wheel is loaded according to its maximum permissible system weight and run against a large rotating drum fitted with a series of bumps.
For mountain bike wheels, these bumps are 22 mm high, while the tyre and pressure are selected according to the intended use of the wheel. The test is run over an extended distance to simulate the accumulated fatigue a wheel experiences over its service life.
Hunt’s carbon and aluminium wheels pass this test. Unfortunately, we don’t have any data showing whether wheels from other manufacturers would also pass when tested according to Hunt’s protocols.
Summary
Ultimately, the carbon rims in this test of 61 different wheels proved to be stronger than their aluminium counterparts. Carbon rims can still crack when pushed beyond their limits, but the strongest examples withstood impact energies far beyond what most wheels are likely to experience in real-world riding.
In the ASTM 4 category, which covers enduro and all-mountain riding, carbon rims failed at an average impact energy 23% higher than aluminium rims, while also being around 5% lighter.
The picture was quite different in the ASTM 3 category, which covers cross-country riding. Here, carbon and aluminium rims failed at roughly the same impact energy, but the carbon rims achieved this at around 25% less weight.
Aluminium rims generally aren’t as strong as carbon in either fatigue or impact resistance. Their advantage is in how they fail: when subjected to a major impact, they tend to dent and deform rather than crack, making the damage easier to identify and often leaving the wheel rideable. And, of course, aluminium rims are considerably easier on the wallet.
Bike Gear
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The 30 Best Bicycle Touring Rims Built to Handle Any Adventure (Strongest Available)
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The post Are Carbon Rims Really Stronger than Aluminium Ones? Rim Destruction Test appeared first on CYCLINGABOUT.com.

https://www.cyclingabout.com/lab-test-are-carbon-rims-really-stronger-than-aluminium-ones/

The 2026 Revel Ranger Ti has a Titanium Front and Carbon Rear ...

2026-10-15T09:42:03Z

The 2026 Revel Ranger Ti has a Titanium Front and Carbon Rear Triangle

Inspired by the brand’s RaTical prototype from last year, the Revel Ranger Ti is a 3D-printed, full-suspension trail bike designed to push the limits of both its design and its rider. Dive into the details below…
The post The 2026 Revel Ranger Ti has a Titanium Front and Carbon Rear Triangle appeared first on BIKEPACKING.com.

https://bikepacking.com/news/2026-revel-ranger-ti-intro/

Takeaways From My 2026 Bikepacking Season This year has been ...

2026-10-15T09:02:12Z

Takeaways From My 2026 Bikepacking Season

This year has been different. Many of you first knew me as the solo bikepacker who couldn’t get enough tough miles in faraway places. From 2019 I enjoyed a dream life of multi-month bike trips interspersed with flexible work at home, and some epic trips with my husband in his limited time off. I worked on exploringwild.com full-time (when I was home) for some of those years, thrilled to be doing what I loved and helping others do it too.
In hindsight I suppose this idyllic arrangement was never meant to last forever. First the internet changed, early tremors of the generative AI boom to come, and I could no longer afford to run exploringwild.com as a business. Then, at age 39 after many years of deliberation and anxiety, I had my baby. And just as things were settling down toward the end of his first year, I took on a full-time job.
Juggling family and work life, while still prioritizing as many adventures as possible and staying in shape for them, is a LOT. My 2026 bikepacking season looked very different from earlier years, but I’m guessing it looked a lot MORE like many of yours. I’ll always be grateful for the opportunity to take so many long trips, but most people, most of the time, are fitting bikepacking into their life rather than the other way around.
Here’s a quick overview of the bike-related fun I had this year and what I learned from it all. For a full-time working parent of a 1.5-year-old kid, I think it’s actually a pretty respectable season.
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First gravel race at Sea Otter Classic
In April I officially jumped back into the bike world with a 30-mile gravel race. At just over a year postpartum I was still rebuilding my strength (if you’ve had a baby you know how frustratingly slow this can be!) so I was thrilled to find it manageable and fun. Next year I’d like to tackle the 60-mile version! The expo at Sea Otter Classic was also paradise for this bike and gear nerd.
Takeaways: No need to be a snob about day rides. There was a time when I thought an unloaded bike ride was hardly worth doing. Now that time is so scarce and logistics are harder, I’m learning to embrace riding hard for a few hours and sleeping in my own bed at night.
Return to bikepack racing at Tour de los Padres
That said, I was obviously still itching to get back in the saddle for a multiday ride. I’ve always found short bikepacking races an efficient method of getting my bikepacking fix: I cover a lot of miles per day, ride alone but enjoy the camaraderie, and still finish within a few days. Now that my husband is doing the heavy lifting of solo parenting while I’m away, riding efficiently – as in “racing” – seems even more appropriate.
There aren’t many bikepacking races in my area, and travel time is a newly important factor. I chose Tour de los Padres for its relative closeness (~5 hour drive) and simple loop format, and the fact that I’d ridden a different version years ago and liked the vibe. I did NOT choose it for the punishing elevation profile (29k feet of climb in 240 miles) or the dozens of miles of rugged, overgrown, rocky backcountry singletrack.
I ended up finishing in under 4 days, right on my usual mid-to-back-of-pack pace despite taking two years off from hard racing (and doing the whole pregnancy and birth thing). Physically it was brutal, but – this is what surprised me most in hindsight – maybe no more brutal than before.
What WAS new was the mental struggle: I spent the first two days planning out the logistics of how I would quit, then ultimately failed to do so (nowhere to stay, nowhere else to go but onward) and finally found my groove on day 3. The finish was a major “I’m back!” moment for me, very significant after all the time I’d spent worrying that motherhood could be the end of my bikepacking days.
Takeaways: Mental strength can be more important than physical, and having an excuse – “I’m not ready yet, what was I thinking jumping back into a hard race so soon” – is perhaps the most dangerous weakness. Mental strength and physical endurance are slow to build and also slow to fade.
Pausing to enjoy the view during a ridiculously steep section of hike-a-bike at TDLP.
Family bike touring in South Korea
After reestablishing my own bikepacking confidence, the obvious next step was to share this beloved form of travel with our son. I planned the longest super-easy, super-safe trip I could find: 400 miles of mostly car-free bike path running the length of South Korea.
I just finished writing an article about this trip for Adventure Cycling, so I’ve been reflecting on it. It was a very hard trip on a very easy route! Our little guy is a natural explorer, and keeping him safe and happy out there was by far the hardest part. Towing 60 pounds of trailer and baby didn’t help either, but it was good training!
Takeaways: Bike travel can take many forms, and being open to them all is key if I want to keep bikes in my life through many years and phases. This trip was not, by most metrics, the kind I would have chosen for myself, but it was absolutely worthwhile. I’m already thinking about the next one!
Riding the Seoul to Busan Cross-Country bike route with our one-year-old
Back to Idaho at Hot Taco Bikepacking Race
If there’s one place in the world that makes me feel at home as a bikepacker, it’s Boise. This is where I rode my first bikepacking race (Idaho Smoke ‘n’ Fire 400), where I’ve found a solid community of friendly riders I’m always happy to see, and where I keep returning for more despite always saying “never again” (I’ve now ridden Smoke ‘n’ Fire four times).
The full Smoke ‘n’ Fire 400 wasn’t in the cards for me this year for multiple reasons, mainly logistical. But I was excited to check out the newer and shorter Hot Taco race, which overlaps SnF in both route and community.
I packed very light (first time without a sleeping bag!), rode a steady race despite temperatures topping 100 degrees, and finished feeling much better than I usually do after being out there twice as long at SnF. Most importantly, I enjoyed seeing old friends and feeling like my “old self” in that familiar context despite so many recent life changes.
Takeaways: Boise still has the best bikepacking scene. Packing light is nice when weather permits! Maybe I do still want to ride Smoke ‘n’ Fire one last time…
Sunset on my first (and last) night out at the Hot Taco bikepacking race
Family gravel overnight at Henry Coe State Park
A few weeks ago, on a Thursday, our upcoming weekend plans were unexpectedly canceled. We found ourselves with a free weekend and fabulous California fall weather.
Our little guy is at an age where being inside all weekend is exasperating, for all of us. I had a crazy idea: what if we did a quick bikepacking overnighter? I’d been wanting to test out the trailer on gravel ever since returning from our (all paved) Korea trip. Unfortunately we live in an area with very few gravel roads, traffic-free routes, or available campsites, so I could think of only one option: Henry Coe State Park.
It’s nearly impossible to plan a route at Henry Coe with less than 1500 feet of climb per 10 miles. It’s rugged and remote, not exactly ideal for towing a trailer. But dispersed camping is allowed, no permit needed, and the entire park is car-free.
So I mapped out the only route I could find on trailer-friendly gravel: a 20-mile out-and-back (with 2800 feet of climbing 😅) to a small lake. Then I got to packing.
This might be the achievement I’m most proud of for 2026: making a spontaneous last-minute decision to go bikepacking with our toddler and actually pulling it off! If I’d had weeks to prep, I could have spent them all. But with just one day, actually just a couple hours after work, I managed to get all the bikes, gear, food, and toddler supplies ready and in the car for Saturday morning.
The trip was a success. Except for a couple hours of hike-a-bike on the steepest section, the trailer did great. We camped alone at the lake with perfect weather and our little guy had a blast. We returned home dirty and tired, but in my opinion it was a weekend well spent.
Takeaways: Spontaneous trips are possible, even with daunting toddler logistics (it certainly helps that I’m experienced with trip prep). Overnights can be worth it (I used to think anything shorter than a couple weeks wasn’t worth the prep time). Out and backs can even be worth it. Seeing my kid enjoy the outdoors is definitely worth it. I still may not do this particular route again though, too much climbing. :)
Looking ahead toward winter, I’m focusing on weight lifting in hopes of building more strength for next year’s bike adventures. I’m also building strength by hauling my son around in a backpack and in his trailer on shorter rides. I’ve got a few ideas for solo bikepacking and family travel next year – I’m still researching and trying to balance all the constraints that come with toddlerhood.
This year taught me that an active adventurous life can take many forms, and it’s worth being open to more of them if I want bikes in my life for the long haul (and I do). I hope you’re also feeling inspired to grab adventure wherever and whenever you find it, in whatever way your current life supports.
More Bikepacking Resources
If you liked this post, you might also like these:
Bike Touring with a Baby: Trailer vs. Handlebar Seat
How much training do you actually need for bikepacking?
Lost Sierra Loop: A Long Weekend Bikepacking Adventure in Northern California
Or visit the bikepacking home page for lots more!
About the Author
Hi there, I’m Alissa, founder of Exploring Wild. I’ve traveled over 20,000 miles by bike and still can’t stop planning my next ride (and helping you plan yours). Pavement and panniers or singletrack and seat bag, I love it all. On my bike I feel free. Learn more about me here.
Bikepackers: Join me on Patreon for ad-free writing, individualized trip prep help, and a community of likeminded supporters.
Join the community
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