mattaroo on Nostr: I surf and once lived on the Big Island HI. I caught at wave at a break called 69's ...
I surf and once lived on the Big Island HI. I caught at wave at a break called 69's with nobody out, double overhead, low tide on the reef, no wind glassy conditions and it was one of the best waves I ever surfed, getting barreled and then pulling of one of my best turns of the top I have ever done. Nobody there to see it! That's where I go :-)